Domakihub How to Winterize Your Home Plumbing (and Avoid Burst Pipes)
A practical walkthrough for homeowners, holiday rental managers, and hotels preparing for cold snaps in Greece.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
A single overnight frost can split a copper pipe and flood a kitchen before dawn — and in Greece, where mountain villages and unheated holiday villas are left unoccupied through winter, the risk is higher than many owners expect. The video above, by This Old House plumbing expert Richard Trethewey, shows the full drain-down procedure in under five minutes; the steps below translate that process into a practical checklist tailored for Greek homes, rental properties, and small hotels. Work through these before the first cold snap of the season and you will avoid the most common — and most expensive — winter plumbing failures.
Why Greek Properties Are Especially Vulnerable
Mainland mountain areas, the Peloponnese, Epirus, and even parts of central Crete regularly see sub-zero nights between November and February. Homes that are occupied year-round usually stay warm enough to protect pipes, but holiday villas, seasonal tavernas, and unheated storerooms are a different story. A property left unheated for even a few days during a cold spell can suffer a burst pipe that goes unnoticed for weeks.
Older properties built before the 1990s often run supply pipes through uninsulated external walls or across open terraces — the highest-risk locations. Newer builds are better, but still benefit from the same winterization routine, particularly in exposed outdoor fixtures and ground-floor meters.
Know Before You Touch the Pipes
Most of the drain-down work described here is DIY-friendly — shutting valves, draining traps, and adding antifreeze to fixtures are all safe for a competent homeowner. However, if your boiler, underfloor heating manifold, or solar thermal system is connected to the plumbing circuit, consult the appliance manual or call a licensed plumber (υδραυλικός) before you drain anything. Draining a sealed heating system without the correct procedure can introduce air locks or void the warranty.
Similarly, if you notice corroded joints, discoloured water, or suspect asbestos-wrapped pipes in an older property, do not disturb them. These are jobs for a certified professional, not a weekend project.
5 Steps to Winterize Your Plumbing
- 1
Shut Off the Main Water Supply
Locate the main stop valve — typically near the water meter, which in Greece is often set into the perimeter wall or in a ground-level chamber outside the building. Turn it fully clockwise until it stops. If the valve is old and stiff, do not force it; call a plumber to replace it before winter. Once the supply is off, open the cold tap furthest from the meter (usually a bathroom at the far end of the property) to confirm flow has stopped.
- 2
Drain All Supply Lines from the Top Down
Open every cold and hot tap in the building, starting on the top floor and working down to the ground floor. This lets air into the upper pipes and pushes residual water out at the lowest point. Flush every toilet until the cistern empties. If there is a dedicated drain-down valve near the boiler or the base of the rising main, connect a short hose and direct it to a floor drain or outside. Leave all taps open during storage so any remaining moisture can evaporate freely.
- 3
Drain and Protect Outdoor Fixtures
Disconnect and store all garden hoses inside — water left in a hose can freeze back into the wall fitting and split the bib valve. Locate the interior isolation valve that feeds each outdoor tap (hose bib), close it, then open the outdoor tap to drain the short section of pipe between the valve and the spigot. Fit an insulated foam cover over each outdoor tap. For drip-irrigation systems, use a compressor set to no more than 30 PSI to blow out the lines, section by section, until no water sprays from the emitters.
- 4
Protect Drain Traps with Antifreeze
The U-shaped trap under every sink, basin, shower, and floor drain holds a small pocket of water that blocks sewer gases — but that same pocket can freeze and crack the trap in an unheated property. Pour a small amount of non-toxic RV or plumbing antifreeze (propylene glycol-based, widely available at Greek hardware stores as αντιψυκτικό σωλήνων) into every drain opening, including toilets, bidet traps, and washing-machine standpipes. This lowers the freezing point of the residual water without needing to remove the traps.
- 5
Insulate Exposed Pipes and Seal Cold Air Entry Points
Any pipe that runs through an unheated space — a garage, a basement, an outdoor utility room, or along an exterior wall — is a freeze risk even if the property stays slightly heated. Fit pre-slit foam pipe-lagging sleeves (available in 15 mm, 22 mm, and 28 mm diameters to match standard Greek copper pipe sizes) to all exposed sections, secured with waterproof tape at each join. Then use expanding foam or silicone to seal gaps where pipes pass through external walls, where cold air from outside is the direct cause of most localized pipe freezes.
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FAQ
- At what outdoor temperature do pipes start to freeze?
- Water begins to freeze at 0°C, but pipes typically burst when the air temperature around them drops below about -6°C for a sustained period. In practice, any night forecast below -3°C in an unheated building is enough to take precautions — especially for pipes in external walls or open terraces where wind chill accelerates the process.
- Can I leave the heating on a low setting instead of draining down?
- Yes, for an occupied or regularly visited property this is often the better option. Set the thermostat to a minimum of 12°C, open cupboard doors under kitchen and bathroom sinks so warm air can reach the pipes, and leave the loft hatch slightly open if pipework runs in the roof space. For properties that will be completely unattended for more than two or three weeks, a full drain-down is safer and more economical than running heating all winter.
- Do I need a licensed plumber to winterize my home, or can I do it myself?
- The basic drain-down, outdoor tap isolation, trap antifreeze, and pipe insulation work described in this guide are all tasks a confident DIY homeowner can carry out safely. You should call a licensed plumber (υδραυλικός) if: the main stop valve is seized and needs replacement; your property has a pressurized heating system (underfloor, solar thermal, or closed-loop boiler) that needs to be drained separately; you find any signs of existing pipe damage, corrosion, or unusual pipe materials. When in doubt, a pre-winter plumber inspection costs far less than a burst-pipe repair.