Domakihub Saltwater vs Chlorine Pool: Which Is Right for Your Home?
Understand the real differences so you choose the system that fits your budget, lifestyle, and Greek climate.
Reviewed by Domakihub pool pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Choosing between a saltwater and a traditional chlorine pool is one of the most common decisions Greek homeowners, holiday-rental operators, and hotel managers face when building or renovating a pool. The video above walks through the mechanics of each system; this article adds the practical framework — upfront costs, long-term maintenance, and how each option holds up under the intense Aegean sun. Read on to make a confident, well-informed choice before your next pool season.
How Each System Actually Works
A traditional chlorine pool is sanitised by manually adding chlorine — usually in tablet, granule, or liquid form — directly to the water on a regular schedule. You control the dosage based on test results, and the chlorine breaks down pathogens and algae by oxidising them.
A saltwater pool is not chlorine-free; it simply generates its own chlorine automatically. A salt chlorine generator (SCG), sometimes called a salt cell, passes the mildly salted water (roughly 3,000 ppm — far less salty than the sea) over electrified titanium plates. This process splits salt molecules and produces a steady, low-level stream of hypochlorous acid — the same active sanitiser found in a chlorine tablet.
What This Means for Greek Pools Specifically
Greece's high UV index degrades chlorine faster than in northern climates, which means traditional pools can swing between under- and over-chlorination if checking is skipped even for a few hot days. A salt system's continuous generation tends to keep levels more stable, which is a meaningful advantage for holiday rentals where guests arrive on changeover day regardless of water quality.
On the other hand, the salt in saltwater pools accelerates corrosion of metal fittings, stone surrounds, and some natural stone coping — a real concern when your pool is framed by traditional Cycladic marble or travertine. Both systems require diligent chemistry monitoring; neither is truly maintenance-free.
5 Steps to Decide Which Pool System to Choose
- 1
Audit your true running costs over five years
Salt cells cost roughly €600–€1,200 and need replacing every 3–5 years. Traditional chlorine products in Greece run approximately €30–€60 per month for a 50 m² pool during the swim season. Run both scenarios with a simple spreadsheet: include chemicals, electricity for the SCG, and anticipated cell replacement. For most pools, saltwater breaks even around year two to three.
- 2
Inspect your pool surround materials before committing to salt
Walk around the pool edge and identify every metal component — ladder anchors, light bezels, handrails, skimmer lids — and the coping material. Stainless steel grades below 316 and natural limestone are both vulnerable to salt-accelerated corrosion. If your pool surrounds are marble, travertine, or budget stainless fittings, price the cost of upgrading them before you add a salt cell, or stick with traditional chlorine.
- 3
Check your water source's mineral profile
Greek tap water, especially on islands supplied by desalination, can arrive with calcium hardness or total dissolved solids already elevated. A salt system adds to that TDS load. Have your fill water tested at a local pool shop before installation; if hardness is already high, you may need a booster water softener or more frequent dilution to avoid scale buildup on the salt cell plates.
- 4
Size the salt cell correctly for your pool volume
Salt cells are rated for a maximum water volume in cubic metres. A common mistake is purchasing a cell rated for 50 m³ and fitting it to a 70 m³ pool — the cell runs at 100% capacity continuously, wearing out in half the expected lifespan. Always buy a cell rated for 20–30% more than your pool's actual volume so it runs at 70–80% output, extending service life considerably.
- 5
Set up a consistent weekly test routine regardless of which system you choose
Neither system eliminates the need to test water chemistry weekly during the swim season. For saltwater pools, measure salt level (target 2,700–3,400 ppm), free chlorine (1–3 ppm), pH (7.2–7.6), cyanuric acid (60–80 ppm as a UV stabiliser), and calcium hardness (200–400 ppm). For traditional chlorine pools, the same targets apply minus the salt reading. A digital test kit or a local pool-shop strip test takes under five minutes and prevents the costly corrections that come from letting chemistry drift.
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FAQ
- Does a saltwater pool feel and taste like the sea?
- No. A saltwater pool operates at roughly 3,000 ppm of salt — the Aegean Sea sits around 38,000 ppm. The water feels noticeably softer than a traditionally chlorinated pool and leaves no salty taste or residue on skin. Most swimmers find it gentler on eyes and hair precisely because the chlorine level is lower and more consistent.
- Can I convert my existing chlorine pool to saltwater?
- In most cases, yes. You add a salt chlorine generator inline with your existing filtration system and dissolve the correct amount of pool-grade salt directly into the water. The main caveats are the material check described above (corrosion-vulnerable fittings and coping) and ensuring your pump and filter are adequately sized, since the SCG works best with a full turnover cycle of 8–10 hours per day.
- Which system is better for a short-season holiday rental in Greece?
- For a property that operates from May to October and may sit unattended between guest stays, a saltwater system's automatic chlorine generation offers a meaningful safety net — levels stay steadier without daily manual dosing. However, the pool still needs a weekly chemistry check by a pool professional or a reliable caretaker. If you cannot guarantee that oversight, the simplicity of traditional chlorine with a local pool-service company on a weekly contract is equally valid.