Domakihub How to Brush a Pool: Walls, Floor & Steps the Right Way
The one step most pool owners skip — and why it makes every chemical you add work harder.
Reviewed by Domakihub pool pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Brushing your pool sounds like the dull part of maintenance, but done correctly it is the single action that keeps algae from taking hold, loosens debris before your filter can catch it, and allows chlorine and shock treatments to penetrate rather than sit on top of a biofilm layer. The video above from Master Touch Pools shows the technique in action; the steps below spell out exactly which brush to reach for, where to start, and how to move so nothing is left behind. Whether you manage a private villa in Crete, a holiday rental in Mykonos, or a boutique hotel pool in Athens, the process takes under twenty minutes and pays back every time.
Why Brushing Matters Before You Add Any Chemical
Chlorine and shock products dissolve into water, but they have to reach the surfaces where algae spores and bacteria actually live. When a thin layer of oils, minerals, and dead organic matter coats your pool walls — which happens quickly in Greece's warm season — chemicals react with that layer first and lose potency before touching the problem underneath. Brushing physically breaks up and suspends that contamination so the water column can carry it to your filter and so your next chemical dose works against the right target.
This is especially important before shocking. If you shock an unbroken pool without brushing first, you are essentially pouring oxidiser onto a sealed crust. Brush the walls thoroughly, let the debris circulate for ten to fifteen minutes, then add your shock treatment for maximum effectiveness.
Choosing the Right Brush for Your Pool Surface
Pool brushes are not interchangeable. Plaster and concrete pools — the most common construction type in Greek residential and hotel pools — require a stainless-steel-bristle or stiff nylon brush that can dislodge mineral deposits and early algae without crumbling the surface. Vinyl-liner pools are far more fragile; use only a soft nylon brush, because steel bristles will puncture or tear the liner within a season. Fibreglass pools sit in the middle: a medium-stiffness nylon brush works well and will not scratch the gel coat that protects the shell.
If you are unsure which surface you have, run your fingernail lightly across a dry section of the pool wall. Plaster feels rough like sandpaper; fibreglass feels smooth and slightly flexible; vinyl has visible seams and a softer give underfoot. Matching the brush to the surface is not optional — the wrong choice either under-cleans or causes damage that costs far more to repair than a replacement brush.
Stroke Pattern: Top-Down, Wall-to-Drain
The most common brushing mistake is starting at the floor and working upward, or brushing in random directions. Both approaches push debris back onto already-cleaned areas. The correct pattern always moves from high to low: begin at the waterline, work down the walls in overlapping vertical strokes, carry any dislodged material toward the slope of the floor, then sweep the floor itself from the shallow end toward the main drain at the deep end. Steps and corners need a dedicated pass because the brush angle changes and debris accumulates in every right angle.
Keep your strokes slow and firm rather than fast and light. A quick swipe skips over the surface; a deliberate push that flexes the bristles against the wall is what actually dislodges biofilm. Overlap each stroke by about a third of the brush width so no strip is left untouched.
How to Brush Your Pool in 5 Steps
- 1
Select and attach the correct brush
Match your brush to your pool surface — stainless or stiff nylon for plaster, soft nylon only for vinyl, medium nylon for fibreglass. Attach it to a telescoping pole long enough to reach the deep end without stretching, and check that the connection is secure before you start.
- 2
Start at the waterline and work down the walls
Begin at the top of each wall just below the tile or coping and brush downward in overlapping vertical strokes. Work your way around the entire perimeter without lifting the brush until you reach the pool floor. This pushes all loosened debris downward rather than scattering it back onto clean surfaces.
- 3
Give corners, steps, and ledges a dedicated pass
Right angles trap debris and allow algae to establish faster than any flat surface. Angle the brush into each corner and use short scrubbing strokes rather than long sweeping ones. Do the same for every step riser and tread, and for any in-pool benches or sun shelves.
- 4
Sweep the floor from shallow to deep end toward the main drain
Once the walls are done, push the floor in slow, overlapping horizontal strokes moving from the shallow end toward the main drain. The drain acts as a collection point — brushing toward it means your pump and filter will draw in the suspended particles as soon as circulation is running.
- 5
Run the pump for at least 30 minutes, then treat with chemicals
After brushing, let the circulation system run for at least half an hour before adding shock or any other treatment. This gives the filter time to capture what you dislodged and ensures the water column is actively mixing. Adding chemicals to a fully circulating, freshly brushed pool gives you the best possible distribution and the highest chemical efficiency.
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FAQ
- How often should I brush my pool?
- For a residential pool in regular use, brushing once a week is the minimum. Holiday rental pools and hotel pools that see heavy bather loads should be brushed two to three times per week, or after every heavy-use period. During Greece's peak summer months, when water temperatures exceed 28°C and pool use is daily, algae can establish within 48 hours if brushing is skipped.
- Can I brush my pool right after adding chemicals?
- It is better to brush before adding chemicals, not after. Brushing first breaks up surface biofilm so that chlorine or shock can penetrate and work on actual bacteria and algae rather than burning through organic matter on top. If you have already added a chemical treatment, wait at least four hours before brushing again so you do not disperse an unevenly distributed dose before it has had time to mix properly.
- My pool walls feel slimy even after brushing — what does that mean?
- A persistent slippery feel after brushing usually indicates an established algae colony, often early-stage green or black algae. Brushing alone will not eliminate an active infestation — it only removes loose cells and exposes the deeper layer. You will need to follow up immediately with a shock treatment at double the normal dose, brush again 12 hours later while the shock is still active, and check that your pH is between 7.2 and 7.4 so the chlorine can work at full strength. Black algae in particular has protective layers and requires very firm brushing with a stainless bristle brush (on plaster only) to break those layers before chemicals can reach the root.