How to Weatherstrip a Door and Stop Draughts for Good
Seal gaps around any exterior door in under an hour with the right strip and a steady hand.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
A poorly sealed door lets in cold air in winter, pushes your cooling bill up in summer, and gives insects a free pass into your home — a real concern for holiday rentals and hotels in Greece that need to stay guest-ready year-round. The video above from This Old House walks through the whole job visually; this guide breaks it down into five clear steps you can follow whether you are working on a villa, an apartment, or a short-term rental unit. All materials are available at any Greek hardware store (praktiker, Leroy Merlin, or local ironmongers).
Why Weatherstripping Wears Out
Door weatherstripping is made from foam, rubber, or felt — materials that compress thousands of times a year every time the door closes. In coastal Greek climates the combination of salt air, UV exposure, and summer heat accelerates the breakdown, and strips that were soft and springy when new become brittle or permanently compressed within a few seasons.
Once the seal is gone you lose more than comfort. Conditioned air escapes, humidity enters (a particular problem in island properties), and the door frame itself can begin to show water staining or swelling. Replacing the strip early is far cheaper than repairing the frame.
Choosing the Right Strip for Your Door
There are four main types: self-adhesive foam tape (cheapest, suits light interior doors), V-strip or tension seal (durable, good for the sides of swinging doors), door-bottom sweeps (for the gap under the door), and kerf-in compression strips (most professional finish, routed into the door stop). For a typical Greek exterior timber door, a kerf-in EPDM rubber strip on the jamb sides and top, combined with an aluminium-backed door sweep on the bottom, gives the best long-term seal.
Measure the full perimeter of the door opening before buying. Add 10 % for waste and mitred corners. EPDM rubber is far more UV-resistant than plain foam and is worth the small price difference in the Greek sun.
How to Weatherstrip a Door: Step by Step
- 1
Remove the old weatherstripping
Open the door fully and pull away any existing strip. Most peel-and-stick types come off by hand; kerf-in strips need a flat pry bar eased along the groove. Clean the jamb surface with a damp cloth and let it dry completely — adhesive will not bond and kerf strips will swell if moisture is trapped underneath.
- 2
Measure and cut the new strips
Measure the two side jambs and the top (head) jamb separately. Cut the side pieces to the exact height of the door stop using tin snips or a sharp utility knife. For the top piece, mitre the ends at 45 degrees where they meet the side pieces so the corners seal cleanly rather than leaving a gap at the joint.
- 3
Install the side jamb strips
For self-adhesive foam or V-strip, peel back 15 cm of backing at a time and press the strip into place along the door stop — the face of the strip should contact the door face when the door is closed, not the edge. For kerf-in EPDM, press the fin of the strip into the routed groove in the stop using a block of wood and a rubber mallet, working from the bottom up to avoid kinks.
- 4
Fit the head (top) strip
Install the top strip last so it sits neatly over the top ends of the side strips. Close the door gently and check that the compression is even across the full width — you should feel light resistance when pulling a sheet of paper through at any point. If one corner is loose, adjust the strip position before the adhesive cures fully.
- 5
Fit the door bottom sweep
With the door closed, slide the new sweep along the bottom edge until the rubber blade just touches the threshold without dragging heavily. Mark the screw holes, open the door, drill pilot holes, and screw the sweep in place. Re-check clearance by opening and closing the door several times — the sweep should whisper across the threshold, not scrape or lift the leading edge of the door.
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FAQ
- How do I know if my door weatherstripping needs replacing?
- Hold a torch along the inside edge of the closed door at night and have someone outside look for light leaking through. Alternatively, slide a sheet of paper around the perimeter — if it moves without resistance at any point, the seal has failed. Visible cracking, flattening, or gaps in the strip are also clear signs it is time to replace it.
- Can I weatherstrip a door myself or do I need a tradesperson?
- Self-adhesive foam tape and V-strip are straightforward DIY jobs requiring only a utility knife, measuring tape, and scissors. Kerf-in compression strips need a router to cut the groove into the door stop, which is a slightly more skilled task, but many Greek carpenters will do this for a small call-out fee. The whole job, including a door sweep, typically takes one to two hours.
- What weatherstripping works best in Greece's hot and humid coastal climate?
- EPDM rubber is the best all-round choice for Greece. It resists UV degradation, ozone, and salt air far better than plain foam or felt strips, and it remains flexible at both the high summer temperatures and the cooler winter nights common in northern Greece and highland areas. Avoid PVC-based strips in direct sun — they harden and crack quickly in Greek summer conditions.