Domakihub How to Soundproof a Room: 5 Steps That Actually Work
Block noise from walls, doors, and windows without a full renovation.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Whether you manage a holiday rental on a busy Greek island, run a hotel near Syntagma Square, or simply want a quieter home office in Athens, unwanted noise is one of the most common complaints tenants and guests raise. This guide walks you through five practical steps — from sealing gaps to adding mass — that reduce sound transmission without tearing down walls. Watch the video above for a visual walkthrough, then follow the steps below to apply each technique to your own space.
Why Rooms in Greece Are Often Hard to Soundproof
Most Greek residential construction relies on concrete or hollow brick shells with thin interior plasterboard partitions and single-glazed aluminum windows. These materials stop water and wind effectively but do very little to dampen airborne sound — conversation, traffic, music, and the inevitable neighbour's TV travel straight through. Holiday rentals and hotel rooms face an additional challenge: guests are present at all hours and have zero tolerance for noise that interrupts sleep.
Understanding where sound enters is the first step. Sound travels through two routes: air gaps (cracks under doors, around window frames, at pipe penetrations) and structural paths (vibration carried through walls, floors, and joists). Effective soundproofing addresses both.
The Difference Between Soundproofing and Sound Absorption
Soundproofing means blocking sound from entering or leaving a room. Sound absorption means reducing echo and reverberation inside a room. Acoustic foam panels and hanging fabric art improve the listening experience inside a room — but they do almost nothing to stop a neighbour's washing machine from waking your guest at 6 a.m. Most DIY articles confuse the two, so it is worth being clear: the steps below focus on blocking, not absorption, with a note where both apply.
5 Steps to Soundproof a Room
- 1
Seal every air gap
Sound travels through air with ease, so the single highest-return action is sealing gaps. Check the gap under each door with a torch at night — if light shows, noise will too. Fit a door sweep or automatic drop seal to the bottom of the door. Apply acoustic sealant (not standard silicone) around window frames, pipe penetrations, and electrical outlets on shared walls. In a rental property this step alone can reduce perceived noise by 30–40 percent and costs very little.
- 2
Add mass to walls
Sound loses energy when it has to move heavy material. The most practical way to add mass without structural work is to fix an extra layer of dense material to the wall surface. Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) is a thin, heavy sheet that can be screwed or adhesive-fixed directly to plasterboard; it is available from European building suppliers and ships to Greece. A second layer of 12.5 mm drywall with green-glue damping compound between the layers is even more effective, though it requires a plasterer to finish.
- 3
Decouple the door
A standard interior door in a Greek apartment is a hollow-core slab that offers almost no acoustic resistance. Replacing it with a solid-core door (at least 44 mm thick) makes a noticeable difference. For rentals where door replacement is not possible, hang a heavy acoustic curtain — sold as 'soundproof curtain' or 'thermique rideau lourd' — on a ceiling-mounted track behind the door. This adds mass and covers the door frame gap. Pair it with a door sweep for best results.
- 4
Treat the windows
Single-glazed aluminum windows are the most common weak point in Greek buildings. Secondary glazing — a second pane fixed inside the existing frame with an air gap of at least 100 mm — is the most cost-effective upgrade and does not require planning permission. For a simpler approach, fit heavy blackout curtains with acoustic lining; they will also please guests who sleep late. Acoustic window inserts (removable panels of laminated glass or acrylic) are a reversible option suitable for rented premises where structural changes are not allowed.
- 5
Break the structural path with decoupling
When bass notes and impact noise (footsteps, washing machines) seem to come through even thick walls, the cause is vibration travelling through the building's concrete frame rather than through air. Decoupling — physically separating two surfaces so vibration cannot jump between them — is the professional fix. Practical options for existing rooms include placing appliances on anti-vibration mats, fitting resilient clips ('sound-isolation clips') when re-drywalling a wall, and laying a floating floor over anti-vibration underlay. Even floating furniture slightly away from shared walls helps at the margins.
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FAQ
- Does acoustic foam actually soundproof a room?
- No. Acoustic foam absorbs echo inside the room — it makes a recording sound cleaner — but it does not meaningfully block sound from entering or leaving. To keep outside noise out you need mass (heavy materials) and airtight seals, not foam panels.
- How much does it cost to soundproof a room in Greece?
- A basic treatment covering door sweeps, acoustic sealant, and window curtains typically costs €150–€400 per room and can be done without professional help. Adding a secondary glazing panel or an extra drywall layer runs €400–€1,200 depending on room size and whether you hire a tradesperson. Full decoupled construction costs significantly more and is usually reserved for home studios or premium hotel rooms.
- Is soundproofing worth it for a holiday rental?
- Yes, in most cases. Noise complaints are one of the top reasons for low ratings on Airbnb and Booking.com. A single bad review citing noise can cost more in lost bookings than a full soundproofing treatment. Properties near airports, main roads, or entertainment districts see the clearest return on investment.