Domakihub How to Replace a Toilet Pan Connector Without a Plumber
Stop that waste-pipe leak in a few hours with basic tools and a flexible connector.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
A leaking or cracked pan connector between your toilet bowl and the soil pipe is one of the most common causes of bad smells and damp floors in Greek homes, rentals, and hotel bathrooms. The video above shows the job in real time; the steps below walk you through each stage with the detail you need to do it yourself or brief a plumber accurately. No mains-gas, no electrical work — this is a straightforward plumbing task any confident DIYer can tackle on a Saturday morning.
What Is a Pan Connector and Why Does It Fail?
A pan connector (sometimes called a WC connector or pan-to-soil connector) is the short plastic fitting that bridges the outlet spigot at the back or bottom of your toilet pan and the cast-iron or PVC soil pipe buried in the wall or floor. In older Greek apartments, the connector is often a rigid 90-degree elbow in white or grey PVC; in newer builds a flexi connector is used to compensate for slight misalignment.
They fail for three reasons: the rubber seal dries out and cracks (common in unoccupied holiday properties), the plastic body develops a hairline split from thermal cycling, or movement in the toilet itself — caused by a loose fixing bolt — causes the spigot to rock free. The result is slow seepage of waste water under the base of the pan, which smells, stains tiles, and can eventually rot the subfloor.
Do You Need a Licensed Plumber for This Job?
Replacing a pan connector does not involve touching the mains water supply under pressure or any gas line, so in Greece it is not legally reserved for a licensed technician (unlike gas appliance work, which must be done by a certified gas engineer, or most mains electrical work). A confident DIYer can do it safely.
That said, call a plumber if: the soil pipe is cast iron and heavily corroded (cutting it incorrectly can crack the pipe), if you find black mould or significant subfloor rot behind the toilet, or if the pan itself is cracked and must be replaced at the same time. In a multi-unit block, also check that the soil stack is not shared in a way that requires shutting off the riser — your building super can advise.
Step-by-Step: Replacing Your Toilet Pan Connector
- 1
Shut off the water and drain the cistern
Turn the isolation valve on the cold-water supply hose (usually a slotted screw on the braided hose behind or beside the cistern) a quarter-turn clockwise until it is fully closed. Flush the toilet to empty the cistern, then hold the flush lever down or sponge out any remaining water in the bowl. Lay old towels on the floor to catch drips.
- 2
Disconnect the toilet from the wall and slide it forward
Prise off the plastic caps hiding the floor bolts at the base of the pan. Undo the nuts — they are usually 13 mm or 15 mm. If corroded, soak with penetrating oil for ten minutes. Lift the cistern water-supply hose free of its elbow fitting (have a small bucket ready). Gently rock the toilet forward about 30 cm until the pan spigot pulls clear of the connector. Do not yank — you risk cracking the spigot.
- 3
Remove the old connector and clean the soil pipe socket
Pull the old connector straight out of the soil pipe socket. Stuff a damp rag into the open soil pipe immediately — this blocks sewer gas. Use a flat scraper or old chisel to remove any dried putty, corroded rubber, or mineral deposits from inside the socket and from around the pan spigot outlet. Wipe both surfaces with a damp cloth. This clean joint is what prevents the new connector from leaking.
- 4
Fit the new flexible connector
A 90-degree or adjustable flexi connector (available at every Greek builders' merchant or hardware store — look for a Geberit, McAlpine, or local equivalent rated for 110 mm soil pipe) is the best replacement choice because it tolerates slight misalignment. Push the larger rubber-lipped end firmly into the soil pipe socket until it bottoms out — you will feel a click or definite stop. Remove the rag from the pipe just before the connector seats. Do not use jointing compound or PTFE tape; the rubber lip seal is sufficient.
- 5
Reposition the toilet and test for leaks
Slide the toilet back so the pan spigot aligns with the open end of the new connector, then push the spigot fully home. Reconnect the water supply hose, refit and tighten the floor bolts (finger-tight plus a quarter turn — overtightening cracks the pan), and replace the caps. Open the isolation valve, let the cistern fill, and flush three or four times while crouching low with a torch to inspect the connector joint and the base of the pan for any sign of seepage. No moisture after five minutes means the job is done.
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FAQ
- What size pan connector do I need for a Greek apartment toilet?
- Almost all residential toilets in Greece use a 110 mm (4-inch) soil pipe, so a standard 110 mm pan connector will fit. Measure the outside diameter of your existing connector before buying to confirm. If the toilet outlet sits slightly to the left, right, or higher than the pipe centre, choose an adjustable flexi connector — these can be angled up to 15 degrees and save a lot of frustration in old buildings where nothing is perfectly aligned.
- How do I stop the sewer smell coming from under the toilet between now and the repair?
- Stuff a rag tightly into the soil pipe socket (or the cracked connector) and seal around it with a few wraps of cling film secured with tape. This is a temporary fix only — sewer gas contains hydrogen sulphide and should not be allowed to accumulate. Do the full repair within 24-48 hours, and ventilate the room in the meantime.
- Can I replace a toilet pan connector in a holiday rental without turning off water to the whole building?
- Yes, provided there is a working isolation valve on the toilet supply hose. Most Greek rental properties installed after 2000 have one; older properties sometimes do not. If there is no isolation valve, you will need to close the main stop valve for the apartment — which is usually inside your unit, under the kitchen sink or in a utility cupboard. You do not normally need to shut off the building riser just for this job.