Domakihub How to Replace a Tap Washer and Stop a Dripping Tap
A simple washer swap ends the drip — no plumber needed.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 4 min read
A dripping tap is one of the most common maintenance calls in Greek homes, holiday rentals, and hotel rooms — and in most cases the fix costs less than a euro and takes under ten minutes. The video above shows the full process in real time; the steps below give you the detail and context to do it confidently yourself. Whether you manage a single apartment in Athens or a portfolio of villas in Crete, this is one repair worth adding to your toolkit.
Why Tap Washers Fail
A tap washer is a small rubber disc that presses against a brass seat inside the tap body to create a watertight seal when the handle is closed. Over time — especially in areas with the hard, mineral-rich water common across much of Greece — the rubber hardens, cracks, or deforms and can no longer seal fully. The result is the familiar steady drip that, left alone, can waste thousands of litres of water a year and leave calcium stains in the basin.
Most household taps in Greece are traditional pillar taps or cross-handle basin mixers that use a standard replaceable washer. Newer ceramic-disc cartridge taps work differently and are covered separately, but if your tap has a rubber washer design, this guide applies directly.
What You Need Before You Start
You need a flat-head or cross-head screwdriver, an adjustable spanner or a set of open-ended spanners, replacement rubber washers (the standard sizes are 12 mm and 15 mm — buy a small assortment pack at any Greek hardware shop or plumbing supplier for around €1–2), and optionally some PTFE tape and plumber's grease. A dry cloth and a small bowl to catch residual water are also useful.
The single most important preparation step is locating and closing the isolation valve or stopcock that supplies the tap. In a Greek property this is usually under the sink, behind an access panel in the bathroom, or at the building's main metre outside. Turn it clockwise until it stops, then open the tap fully to release any pressure and drain the remaining water in the pipe before you begin.
Step-by-Step: Replacing the Tap Washer
- 1
Turn off the water supply and open the tap
Close the isolation valve serving the tap — turn it clockwise until it stops. Open the tap handle fully to release pressure and drain the line. Place a dry cloth in the basin to protect the enamel and catch any small parts that might drop.
- 2
Remove the tap handle
Prise off the decorative cap on top of the handle (it is usually a push-fit plastic or ceramic disc — use a flat screwdriver and a cloth to avoid scratching). Underneath you will find a screw; remove it and lift the handle straight off. If it feels stuck, rock it gently rather than forcing it.
- 3
Unscrew the packing nut and lift out the headgear
Use your adjustable spanner to loosen and remove the large hexagonal packing nut (also called the gland nut) that sits just below the handle fitting. Turn anti-clockwise. Once loose, lift the entire headgear — the spindle assembly — straight out of the tap body. This is the part that holds the washer.
- 4
Replace the washer
Look at the bottom of the spindle. You will see the old washer held in place by a small brass nut. Unscrew that nut (anti-clockwise), remove the worn washer, and press a new one of the same diameter firmly onto the seating. Refit the brass nut and tighten it snugly — finger-tight plus a quarter turn is enough. Avoid overtightening, which can distort the new rubber immediately.
- 5
Reassemble, turn the water back on, and test
Lower the headgear back into the tap body, thread the packing nut on by hand first, then tighten with the spanner — firm but not excessive. Refit the handle and secure the screw. Slowly reopen the isolation valve and watch for leaks at the nut joint. Close the tap handle and check whether the drip has stopped. If it still drips very slightly, the brass seat inside the tap body may be pitted and need a reseating tool — but in the majority of cases a new washer alone solves the problem entirely.
Rather have a pro handle it?
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FAQ
- How do I know if my tap has a washer or a ceramic cartridge?
- Turn the handle: if it rotates more than a quarter-turn to go from closed to fully open, it almost certainly uses a rubber washer. Quarter-turn taps (lever handles that stop at 90 degrees) use a ceramic disc cartridge instead, which is replaced as a whole unit rather than just a washer.
- What size washer do I need?
- The two most common sizes in Greek plumbing are 12 mm (for basin taps) and 15 mm (for kitchen and outdoor taps). If you are unsure, take the old washer to the hardware shop and match it visually. A mixed pack covering both sizes costs around €1–2 and is the easiest option.
- The tap still drips after I replaced the washer — what now?
- The most likely cause is a worn or pitted brass seat inside the tap body that the washer presses against. A tap reseating tool (available for around €10–15 at plumbing suppliers) grinds the seat smooth again. If the seat is too badly damaged or the tap body itself is corroded, replacing the whole tap is often the more cost-effective solution for a rental or hotel property.