Domakihub Replace a Basin Tap Yourself and Skip the Callout
A practical step-by-step guide to swapping out an old bathroom basin tap without a plumber.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Replacing a basin tap is one of the most manageable plumbing jobs a homeowner or holiday-rental manager can tackle — no specialist training required, just the right tools and a methodical approach. The video above walks through the full process with real hardware, and this guide gives you the ordered steps, key pitfalls to avoid, and answers to the questions that trip people up most. Whether you manage a family home in Athens, an Airbnb in Santorini, or a small hotel on the Peloponnese, getting this job done yourself saves both time and a service callout fee.
Mixer Tap or Pillar Taps — What You Are Replacing
A basin mixer has a single body fed by both hot and cold supply pipes, blending the flow at a central spout. Pillar taps are the older two-tap arrangement, one per supply, common in period Greek properties and older apartment blocks. The removal and fitting steps are essentially the same either way; the only difference is that a mixer produces one through-hole in the basin while pillar taps occupy two separate holes.
Before buying a replacement, measure the hole diameter (usually 35 mm) and the distance between centres on a two-hole basin. Greek plumbing supplies and large hardware chains such as Praktiker carry both standard European and 1/2-inch BSP fittings, which cover the vast majority of basins you will encounter here.
Tools and Parts to Gather Before You Start
You need an adjustable spanner, a basin wrench (also called a tap spanner — essential for reaching the backnut in the confined space under the basin), PTFE thread tape, plumber's putty or silicone sealant, a bucket or towel, and a flat-head screwdriver. For mixer taps, flexible braided hoses are often sold with the new tap; if not, buy two that match your supply-pipe thread and length.
Having everything within arm's reach before you crawl under the basin saves unnecessary trips and reduces the time the water supply is off — a practical concern if you are mid-season at a rental property.
How to Replace a Basin Tap: 5 Steps
- 1
Isolate the Water Supply
Locate the isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes directly under the basin — most modern Greek installations have them. Turn each valve a quarter-turn clockwise with a flat-head screwdriver until the slot sits perpendicular to the pipe. If there are no under-sink valves, close the main stopcock for that riser or, in an apartment, the main inlet valve for the flat. Open the old tap fully to drain residual pressure, then place a towel or small bucket under the work area to catch the water that remains in the pipes.
- 2
Disconnect the Supply Hoses and Remove the Old Tap
Use an adjustable spanner to loosen the hose nuts connecting the supply pipes to the tap tails — turn anticlockwise. Have your bucket ready as a small amount of water will drain out. Once the hoses are free, reach up behind the basin with your basin wrench to grip the backnut securing the tap body to the basin from below. These backnuts are often stiff after years in a damp, confined space; a short burst of penetrating oil left for ten minutes can make the difference between a smooth removal and a frustrating struggle. Unscrew the backnut fully and lift the old tap clear from above.
- 3
Clean the Basin Surface and Seat the New Tap
Scrub away any old sealant, limescale, or putty residue from the tap hole using a plastic scraper — avoid metal blades on ceramic. If your new tap comes with a rubber or plastic base gasket, fit it onto the tap body now; if not, roll a thin rope of plumber's putty and press it around the underside of the tap base. Lower the new tap through the hole from above, ensuring the spout faces forward. From below, slide on the plastic washer and hand-tighten the backnut, then snug it firmly with the basin wrench — firm but not overtightened, which can crack the ceramic.
- 4
Connect the Supply Hoses and Apply PTFE Tape
Wrap two to three layers of PTFE tape clockwise around each threaded tap tail before attaching the hoses — this ensures a reliable seal and makes future removal easier. Hand-tighten each hose nut first, then give a further half to three-quarter turn with the spanner. Do not over-tighten braided hoses; the fibre braid compresses the olive and excess force can split the nut. If you are fitting pillar taps, repeat the hose connection on both hot and cold tails independently.
- 5
Restore the Water and Check for Leaks
Slowly reopen each isolation valve (or the main stopcock) and let pressure build before touching anything. Watch every joint — the hose nuts, the tap base against the basin, and the spout outlet — for any sign of weeping. Run the tap through its full range, from cold to hot, and let it run for thirty seconds. Dry all joints with a cloth, wait two minutes, and check again with dry hands so even the smallest drip is obvious. If a hose nut weeps, a further quarter-turn on the spanner usually resolves it. Once everything is dry, the job is done.
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FAQ
- Do I need a licensed plumber to replace a basin tap in Greece?
- For a straightforward tap swap — disconnecting and reconnecting existing supply pipes at isolation valves — no licence is legally required for a private homeowner doing their own property. However, any work that involves cutting into main supply pipes or making new connections inside walls should be done by a licensed technician (installatoras). If you manage a commercial property such as a hotel, check with your insurer, as some policies require certified tradespeople for any plumbing work.
- My backnut will not budge — what should I do?
- Apply a penetrating oil (WD-40 or a dedicated rust release) to the thread where the backnut meets the tap tail, and leave it for at least fifteen minutes. Use a proper basin wrench rather than an adjustable spanner at an awkward angle — the long handle gives the leverage needed in tight under-sink spaces. If the tail rotates with the nut, ask a second person to hold the tap body still from above while you turn. In extreme cases, an angle grinder can cut through a corroded nut, but protect the basin with cardboard and take care around supply pipes.
- How do I know which replacement tap will fit my basin?
- Measure the tap-hole diameter (standard is 35 mm in most Greek and European basins) and, for two-hole basins, the centre-to-centre distance between holes (typically 180 mm). Note your supply-pipe thread — 1/2-inch BSP is by far the most common in Greece. Take a photo of the existing tap and pipe connections to the hardware store if you are unsure. When in doubt, a mixer tap with flexible hoses covers the widest range of under-sink configurations.