Domakihub How to Replace a Bath Tap: A Step-by-Step Guide
Save on call-out fees by swapping tired bath taps yourself — here is exactly how.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
A dripping or corroded bath tap is one of the most common plumbing complaints in Greek homes, holiday villas, and hotel bathrooms alike — and in most cases it is a job a confident DIYer can handle in under two hours. The video above walks through the fitting process visually, while this guide gives you the ordered steps, the tools you need, and the moments when calling a licensed plumber is the smarter move.
When You Can DIY and When You Need a Pro
Replacing bath taps sits firmly in the DIY-friendly zone of plumbing: it involves the cold- and hot-water supply pipes under the bath, not the mains pressure feed that enters the building. Provided your building has serviceable isolation valves (or you know where the main stopcock is), no license is required in Greece to carry out this work on your own property.
However, if the tap holes in the bath are cracked, the copper supply pipes are corroded right back to the floor, or you discover a hidden leak behind the bath panel, stop and bring in a certified plumber (υδραυλικός). The same applies to combination boiler connections: never adjust the boiler pipework yourself.
Choosing the Right Replacement Tap
Greek baths typically use taps with 3/4-inch (22 mm) threaded shanks and a 180 mm centre-to-centre hole spacing, but always measure your own bath before buying. Pillar taps (a separate hot and cold) are easiest to replace like-for-like; a monobloc mixer requires a single larger hole and may need an adaptor plate if you are upgrading from pillars.
For holiday rentals and hotels, prioritise ceramic-disc cartridge taps over rubber-washer types — they are virtually drip-free and far more durable under heavy guest use. Budget an extra few euros for braided flexible tap connectors (so-called 'flexi hoses'); they make the under-bath connection significantly easier than rigid copper pipe.
How to Replace a Bath Tap: 5 Steps
- 1
Isolate the water supply
Turn off the hot and cold isolation valves on the supply pipes beneath the bath — slot-head screwdriver, quarter-turn so the slot is perpendicular to the pipe. If there are no isolation valves, close the building's main stopcock. Open the old taps fully to drain the remaining water from the pipes and release any residual pressure before you touch anything else.
- 2
Disconnect and remove the old taps
Place a towel and a shallow tray under the work area to catch drips. Use an adjustable spanner or, better, a basin wrench (also called a crowfoot wrench) to unscrew the back-nuts holding each tap to the underside of the bath. These are often stiff — penetrating oil left for ten minutes helps. Once the back-nuts are off, lift the tap out from above, noting the order of the fibre washer, any back-plate, and the flat washer as you go.
- 3
Clean the tap holes and fit the new taps
Scrape away old plumber's putty or silicone from around the tap holes using a plastic scraper, then wipe clean with a damp cloth. Thread the new tap through the hole from above with its rubber or fibre seating washer in place — never over-tighten or you risk cracking an acrylic bath. Apply a small bead of silicone sealant around the base if the tap has no built-in rubber gasket. Hand-tighten the back-nut from below, then snug it up with the basin wrench: firm but not forced.
- 4
Connect the flexible hoses
Attach new braided flexi hoses to the tap tails (hand-tight plus a quarter-turn with a spanner, PTFE tape on the thread first). Connect the other ends to the isolation valves, again with PTFE tape on male threads. Confirm hot is connected to the left tap/port and cold to the right — the Greek standard matches the EU norm. Do not reuse old flexible hoses; a burst hose is one of the most common causes of serious water damage in holiday properties.
- 5
Restore water and test for leaks
Open the isolation valves slowly (or reopen the main stopcock) and let the pipes fill. Visually inspect every joint for drips before turning the new taps on. Run both hot and cold fully for thirty seconds to flush any debris, then check flow and temperature. Finally, dry all joints and leave a piece of white tissue paper under each connection overnight — any tiny seep will show immediately. If all is dry, refit the bath panel.
Rather have a pro handle it?
Get a vetted plumbing pro in your city — one number, booked in EN/EL/DE.
FAQ
- Do I need a plumber's licence to replace bath taps in Greece?
- No. Replacing taps on the internal supply pipework of your own home or rental property does not require a professional licence in Greece. A licensed plumber (υδραυλικός) is legally required for work on the mains pressure entry point, gas lines, or any structural alterations to the building's plumbing system.
- How long does it take to replace a pair of bath taps?
- Allow 1–2 hours for a straightforward like-for-like swap once you have the tools and replacement taps to hand. Add time if back-nuts are heavily corroded — penetrating oil and a basin wrench are your best friends. First-timers should budget a full afternoon so there is no pressure to rush.
- My bath has no isolation valves under it — what do I do?
- Close the main water stopcock for the property (typically near the meter or where the supply enters the building), then drain the pipes by opening the bath taps. Once you have fitted the new taps, it is worth adding isolation valves to the supply pipes at the same time — they cost very little and make every future tap job much simpler.