Domakihub How to Lay Solid Wood Flooring: A Step-by-Step Guide
Everything you need to know before, during, and after fitting real hardwood boards.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 6 min read
Solid wood flooring adds warmth, character, and long-term value to homes, holiday rentals, and boutique hotels alike — qualities that resonate strongly in the Greek market where natural materials and lasting quality matter to owners and guests. The video above shows a complete real-world installation from start to finish; the guide below breaks every stage into clear, actionable steps so you can prepare intelligently and work confidently. Whether you plan to do the job yourself or oversee a contractor, understanding the full process protects your investment and prevents the most common — and costly — mistakes.
Why Solid Wood Flooring Is Different from Engineered Boards
Solid wood flooring is milled from a single piece of timber — typically 18–22 mm thick — and can be sanded and refinished multiple times over its lifetime. That makes it a genuine long-term asset rather than a surface covering. Engineered boards, by contrast, have a thin hardwood veneer over a plywood core and suit locations with higher humidity fluctuations, such as underfloor-heated rooms or ground-floor spaces close to concrete slabs.
Solid wood must be secret-nailed or glued to a timber subfloor. It is not suitable for direct glue-down to bare concrete without a fully dry and levelled screed, and it should never be installed in rooms with standing moisture risks (bathrooms, utility rooms, unconditioned basements). If your subfloor is concrete, test for moisture first — a failed moisture test means professional damp-proofing before any wood goes down.
Subfloor Conditions and the Acclimatisation Rule
The single biggest cause of solid wood floor failure in Greece is skipping acclimatisation. Timber is a hygroscopic material — it expands when it absorbs moisture and contracts when it dries. Boards must be left in the room where they will be installed, in their opened packaging, for a minimum of 72 hours and ideally 5–7 days. In coastal or island properties where summer humidity can swing dramatically, allow the full seven days.
Your subfloor must be flat to within 3 mm over a 1.8 m span, structurally sound, dry (below 12% moisture content for timber subfloors, below 75% RH for concrete using a hygrometer test), and free of squeaks or movement. Any flex in the subfloor will telegraph through the hardwood and cause joint failure. Address subfloor defects before delivery of the wood — not after.
How to Lay Solid Wood Flooring: 5 Steps
- 1
Prepare the subfloor and acclimatise the boards
Check the subfloor for level, structural integrity, and moisture. Sand down high spots or use a self-levelling compound for dips greater than 3 mm. Test moisture content with a calibrated pin meter — timber subfloors must read below 12% before any wood is laid. Once satisfied, stack the unopened boxes of flooring in the room for at least 72–168 hours so the boards adjust to the ambient temperature and humidity. Do not store them near radiators, air-conditioning vents, or directly in sunlight.
- 2
Plan your layout and establish a straight working line
Decide which direction the boards will run. Running parallel to the longest wall or along the main light source (a window or door) almost always gives the best visual result. Measure the room width and calculate how many full board widths fit across it — if the final row would be less than 30 mm wide, rip the first row narrower so the cut rows at each wall are balanced. Snap a chalk line parallel to your starting wall and 10–12 mm away from it; this gap is your expansion gap, which allows the wood to move seasonally without buckling. Never omit it.
- 3
Lay the first rows and establish the nail-down or glue-down method
For nail-down installation over a timber subfloor, position the first row groove-side to the wall, face-nail through the top face close to the wall (these nails will be hidden by the skirting board), then secret-nail at 45 degrees through the tongue at approximately 300 mm centres using a flooring nailer or manual mallet and nail-punch. For glue-down over a primed concrete screed, apply a flexible flooring adhesive with the correct notched trowel and press boards firmly in. In either method, use the tongue-and-groove system — the groove of each new board clicks onto the tongue of the previous one. Use off-cuts to knock boards together gently; never hit the tongue directly.
- 4
Work across the room, stagger the joints, and check alignment frequently
Stagger end joints by at least 300 mm (ideally 500 mm or more) between adjacent rows — random stagger patterns look the most natural. As you progress, check that rows remain parallel to your chalk line every three to four rows using a tape measure from both ends of the room. Knock rows tight before nailing; gaps between boards at this stage will not close later. At doorways and transitions to other floor surfaces, use purpose-made threshold strips rather than forcing a butt joint. Cut boards to length with a mitre saw or jigsaw, always cutting face-down with a sharp blade to avoid splintering the top surface.
- 5
Fit the final row, replace skirtings, and finish the floor
The last row almost always needs to be rip-cut to width on a table saw or circular saw with a rip guide. Face-nail or use a pull bar and tapping block to close the final row tight. Once all boards are down, replace skirting boards or fit matching wooden beading around the perimeter to cover the expansion gap — do not fill this gap with silicone or grout. Allow any adhesive to cure for 24–48 hours before walking heavily on the floor. If the boards are unfinished, sand progressively (36-grit, 60-grit, 80-grit, 120-grit) with a drum sander and edge sander, then apply your chosen oil, hardwax-oil, or lacquer finish according to the manufacturer's guidance.
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FAQ
- Can I lay solid wood flooring over underfloor heating?
- Standard solid wood flooring is not recommended over underfloor heating because the repeated heat cycles cause the boards to expand and contract more than the nail-down or glue-down method can tolerate, leading to cupping, gapping, or joint failure. If you want wood over UFH, use engineered hardwood boards specifically rated for UFH use (look for a maximum surface temperature rating of 27°C) and keep the system on a slow warm-up and cool-down schedule. Always check the specific manufacturer's warranty before proceeding.
- Do I need a building permit to install solid wood flooring in Greece?
- For a standard like-for-like floor replacement within an existing residential property, no building permit (oikodomiki adeia) is required. However, if the work involves altering load-bearing elements, raising the finished floor level significantly to alter ceiling heights, or changing the use of a space, you should consult a licensed civil engineer (politikos michanikos). For listed buildings or properties in protected architectural zones — common in island villages and historic town centres — even interior finishes may require prior approval from the local planning authority (Ypiresía Domisís).
- How long does solid wood flooring last and how often does it need sanding?
- Quality solid hardwood flooring installed correctly can last 50–100 years. Because the boards are 18–22 mm thick, they can typically be sanded and refinished four to eight times over their lifetime. How often sanding is needed depends on traffic and finish type: a heavily used rental property with an oil finish may need a light re-oiling every two to three years and a full sand every ten to fifteen years, while a private home with a tough lacquer finish may go twenty or more years between full sands.