Domakihub How to Lay Laminate Flooring: A Step-by-Step Guide
Everything you need to know to install laminate floors yourself, from subfloor prep to the finishing trim.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Laminate flooring is one of the most rewarding DIY projects a homeowner, landlord, or holiday-rental operator can tackle — it refreshes a room in a single weekend and holds up well against Greece's dry summers and sandy feet. The video above walks you through the full installation in real time; this guide distills the process into five clear steps with the extra details that matter for local conditions, such as managing humidity swings between a heated winter interior and a sun-baked summer terrace. Whether you are upgrading an apartment in Athens, a villa in Crete, or a boutique hotel room, the fundamentals are the same.
Why Laminate Works Well in Greek Homes and Rentals
Modern laminate — especially AC4- or AC5-rated planks — handles heavy foot traffic and the grit that guests inevitably bring in from tiled terraces or sandy beaches. Its click-lock floating system means it can be lifted and re-laid if a section suffers water damage, which is a practical advantage in holiday rentals where a quick turnaround between bookings is essential.
Look for planks with a moisture-resistant core (HDF or water-resistant HDF) if the room is close to a bathroom or a ground-floor space that sees cool, damp winters. In Greece the relative humidity can swing sharply between seasons, so choosing a quality underlayment and allowing adequate expansion gaps is more important than in more temperate climates.
Tools and Materials to Gather Before You Start
You will need: the laminate planks themselves (plus 10% extra for cuts and waste), a suitable foam or combined foam-and-vapour-barrier underlay, a tape measure, pencil, pull bar, tapping block, rubber mallet, spacers (8–12 mm), a jigsaw or mitre saw, and a utility knife. A moisture meter is a worthwhile investment for checking concrete subfloors before you begin.
For finishing you will need matching skirting boards or scotia trim, adhesive or nails to fix them, and a mitre box for clean corner cuts. Keep all planks flat in the room for at least 48 hours before installation so they acclimatise to the local temperature and humidity — this single step prevents most post-installation buckling complaints.
How to Lay Laminate Flooring: 5 Steps
- 1
Prepare the Subfloor
Clear the room completely and check the subfloor for levelness with a long straightedge — any dip or bump greater than 3 mm over 1.8 m must be filled or sanded down before you proceed. On concrete, use a moisture meter; if readings are above 75% RH, apply a DPM (damp-proof membrane) or choose a specialist moisture-barrier underlay. On timber subfloors, screw down any squeaky boards and plane down protruding nail heads.
- 2
Lay the Underlay
Roll out the underlay perpendicular to the direction you plan to run the planks. Butt the edges together without overlapping — overlaps create a bump that will eventually telegraph through the laminate surface. Tape the seams with the foil tape recommended by the underlay manufacturer. If your underlay does not include an integrated vapour barrier and you are on a concrete slab, lay a separate 250-micron polythene sheet first, lapping it 150 mm up the walls.
- 3
Plan Your Layout and Start the First Row
Measure the room width and divide it by the plank width to work out whether your last row will be an awkward sliver (less than 50 mm). If so, rip the first row down so the first and last rows are approximately equal in width — this looks far more professional. Place 10 mm spacers against the starting wall, lay the first plank groove-side toward the wall, and click subsequent planks together end-to-end along the row. Stagger end joints by at least 300 mm between rows to give the floor structural integrity.
- 4
Continue Row by Row, Cutting Around Obstacles
Work across the room, clicking each row into the preceding one at a low angle and tapping gently with a tapping block and mallet to close the joints. Use a pull bar to close joints along the final plank in each row where you cannot swing the mallet freely. For door frames, undercut the architrave with a multi-tool or hand saw so the plank slides cleanly beneath it — never force the floor up against the frame. For pipes, drill a hole 20 mm wider than the pipe diameter, slot the plank around the pipe, and cover the gap with a pipe-rose collar.
- 5
Fit the Final Row and Add Finishing Trim
Measure and rip the last row to width, remembering to maintain the 10 mm expansion gap at the far wall. Remove all spacers once the field is complete and fit skirting boards or scotia trim to conceal the perimeter gap — fix the trim to the wall only, never to the floor, so the floating floor can still move. Rehang doors if they need trimming to clear the new floor height, and refit any floor-mounted radiator pipes or electrical outlets. Stand back and check the entire field for uneven joints; a gentle tap with the mallet and block will close any that gapped during installation.
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FAQ
- How long should laminate planks acclimatise before installation?
- At least 48 hours in the room where they will be laid, with the boxes open or the planks stacked loosely so air can circulate around them. In Greece, where temperature and humidity can vary significantly between a heated winter interior and a hot summer, 72 hours is safer — especially for thicker 12 mm planks.
- Do I need underlay if the laminate already has a pre-attached backing?
- Pre-attached foam backing replaces a separate thin foam underlay, but it does not replace a vapour barrier on a concrete subfloor. If your slab moisture readings are elevated, still lay a 250-micron polythene sheet beneath planks that have pre-attached backing, and tape the seams carefully.
- Can laminate flooring be laid in bathrooms or kitchens?
- Standard laminate should not be used in wet rooms such as bathrooms or rooms with floor drains. In kitchens — which are damp rather than wet — you can use water-resistant or 'hydro' laminate with a sealed-core HDF board and ensure any spills are wiped up promptly. For actual bathrooms, luxury vinyl plank (LVP) is a more suitable choice.