Domakihub How to Lay Block Paving: A Step-by-Step Guide
Get a durable, professional-looking paved surface by following the right sub-base and laying sequence.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 6 min read
Block paving transforms a bare driveway, courtyard, pool surround, or hotel entrance into a clean, hard-wearing surface that handles Greek heat and heavy foot traffic equally well. The video above walks you through the full installation on a real driveway; this article breaks the same process into five clear stages with the details you need before lifting a single stone. Whether you own a holiday villa in Crete or a family home in Athens, getting the sub-base right is the single biggest factor between paving that lasts decades and paving that sinks after the first winter rains.
When is block paving DIY-friendly — and when should you call a pro?
Laying block paving on a path, patio, or small courtyard is a realistic DIY project for a competent homeowner with access to a hired plate compactor. However, driveways that serve vehicles, surfaces adjoining a public road, or any work that requires connecting to or diverting drainage infrastructure almost always need a licensed contractor in Greece. Under Greek law (N. 4067/2012 and related municipal planning regulations), any significant hard-standing that alters water run-off or encroaches on public land may require a building permit or at minimum a notification to your local municipality (Demos).
Before you start, check with your local planning office (Poleodomia) whether your project triggers a permit. If your driveway connects to a public road kerb, you will also need approval from the relevant road authority. A qualified civil or structural engineer should assess any project where the ground is soft, waterlogged, or sits on fill — common in coastal and island locations across Greece.
Choosing the right blocks and materials for the Greek climate
Concrete block pavers (also called interlocking pavers) are the most common choice for driveways and courtyards in Greece. Look for pavers rated to at least 50 MPa compressive strength and confirmed frost-resistance (important in northern Greece and mountain areas). Thickness matters: 60 mm pavers are standard for pedestrian areas, while vehicle driveways require 80 mm blocks. Natural stone setts — granite or basalt — are popular for period properties and hotel forecourts, but they cost significantly more and require a slightly different laying technique.
For the jointing sand, use kiln-dried sharp sand or a polymer-jointing sand product. Standard sharp sand (used for the bedding layer) and type-1 crushed aggregate (for the sub-base) are widely available from builders' merchants across Greece. Budget roughly 0.1 m3 of bedding sand and 0.15–0.2 m3 of sub-base aggregate per square metre of finished surface.
How to Lay Block Paving: 5 Steps
- 1
Excavate and prepare the formation level
Mark the area with string lines set to your finished surface level, then excavate downward to accommodate the full build-up: typically 150–200 mm of compacted sub-base, 40–50 mm of bedding sand, and the block thickness (60 or 80 mm). That means digging 250–330 mm below your target finished level. Remove all topsoil, roots, and soft material. On clay-heavy or waterlogged ground, go deeper and consider a geotextile membrane at the bottom of the excavation to prevent sub-base migration. Install edge restraints (concrete haunching or proprietary plastic edging) around the full perimeter before any fill goes in — these hold the blocks in position under load and are non-negotiable.
- 2
Lay and compact the sub-base
Fill the excavation with type-1 crushed granite or limestone hardcore in 100 mm layers, compacting each layer with a vibrating plate compactor before adding the next. Two passes at 90 degrees to each other give the most even compaction. Do not compact in a single thick lift — inadequately compacted sub-base is the leading cause of block paving settlement and edge rocking. The finished sub-base should be firm, stable underfoot, and sit at exactly the right level to accept your 40–50 mm bedding sand layer on top. Check levels continuously with a long spirit level or a laser level.
- 3
Screed the bedding sand layer
Spread sharp sand (not building sand — it is too soft) evenly over the compacted sub-base to a depth of approximately 40–50 mm. Use two parallel straight metal screeding rails set to the correct height to drag a screed board across the surface, creating a flat, even bed. Work in manageable sections and avoid walking on the screeded sand once it is level. The sand is not compacted at this stage — it is a laying course, not a structural layer. Ensure the screed follows the correct cross-fall for drainage: a minimum 1:60 gradient (roughly 16 mm per metre) directed away from buildings and toward a drainage outlet.
- 4
Lay the blocks in your chosen pattern
Start laying from a fixed straight edge — typically the edge restraint along the most visible boundary. For a herringbone pattern (the strongest for driveways), work at 45 degrees to the main axis. Place each block gently onto the sand bed without disturbing the surface; do not slide blocks sideways or drop them from height. Keep joints consistent at 2–3 mm using the block's integral spacer nibs. Cut blocks to fit edges and curves using an angle grinder with a diamond disc or a block splitter hired from a local tool supplier. Work across the area and save all cut pieces for last. Regularly check that rows are running straight using your string lines.
- 5
Compact, joint, and finish
Once all blocks are laid, run the plate compactor over the entire surface with a rubber or polyethylene pad fitted to avoid marking the blocks. Make at least two passes in perpendicular directions. This drives the blocks down into the sand bed and locks them together. Next, spread kiln-dried jointing sand liberally across the surface and sweep it diagonally into the joints with a stiff brush. Run the compactor over the surface once more to vibrate the sand down into the joints. Repeat the sand application and sweeping until all joints are full to within 2–3 mm of the block surface. Remove surplus sand with a leaf blower or brush. Inspect the perimeter edge restraints — top up any concrete haunching that has been disturbed and leave to cure for 48 hours before allowing vehicle traffic.
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FAQ
- Do I need a building permit to lay block paving on my driveway in Greece?
- It depends on the scope and location. Small private courtyards and patios within a property boundary typically fall below the permit threshold, but any driveway that modifies surface water run-off, connects to a public road, or covers more than a certain area (thresholds vary by municipality) may require a notification or full permit under Greek urban planning law (N. 4067/2012). Always confirm with your local Poleodomia office before starting work to avoid fines or forced removal.
- How thick should the sub-base be for a driveway in Greece?
- For a standard residential driveway with occasional car and light van traffic, a compacted sub-base of 150 mm is the accepted minimum. On softer or clay soils — which are common in coastal lowlands and areas with seasonal flooding — increase this to 200–250 mm and add a geotextile separation membrane at the bottom. If heavy vehicles (lorries, trucks) will use the surface, consult a structural engineer, as the sub-base and block thickness requirements increase substantially.
- Why is my newly laid block paving sinking or rocking?
- The two most common causes are insufficient sub-base compaction and using the wrong type of bedding sand. If the hardcore sub-base was not compacted in thin layers with a vibrating plate, it will continue to settle under load over the following months. Using soft building sand rather than sharp sand in the bedding layer also leads to creep and movement. Unfortunately, the only reliable fix is to lift the affected blocks, address the sub-base or sand problem, re-screed, and re-lay — a task best handled by an experienced paving contractor.