Domakihub Install LVP Flooring Over Concrete the Right Way
A practical step-by-step guide for Greece's concrete-slab apartments, villas, and holiday rentals.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) has become the go-to flooring upgrade for Greek apartments, seaside villas, and short-term rentals — and for good reason. It handles humidity, resists scratches, and clicks together without adhesive, making it ideal for the concrete-slab construction that dominates Greek residential and hospitality buildings. The video above walks through a real concrete-slab installation from start to finish; this article breaks down each stage with the specific details you need to get it right the first time.
Why Concrete Subfloors Demand Extra Preparation
Most Greek apartments and villas are built on poured concrete slabs. While concrete is dimensionally stable, it is porous and can wick ground moisture upward — a particular concern in coastal areas, basements, and ground-floor units near the sea. Skipping moisture testing or subfloor levelling is the single biggest cause of LVP failures: planks buckle, edges lift, and click-lock joints crack under uneven loads.
The good news is that LVP tolerates minor imperfections better than tile or hardwood, and the installation process is genuinely DIY-friendly once you have addressed the concrete surface properly. Allow two to three days for the full project in a typical Greek apartment of 80–100 m².
Choosing the Right LVP for Greek Conditions
Not all LVP is equal. For Greek properties — especially coastal holiday rentals exposed to sand and salt air — look for a wear layer of at least 12 mil (0.3 mm) for residential use, or 20 mil for high-traffic rentals and hotel rooms. A built-in underlayment pad simplifies installation and adds acoustic dampening, which matters in multi-storey apartment buildings where noise regulations apply. Waterproof core (WPC or SPC) is strongly preferred over standard LVP for bathrooms and kitchen areas.
How to Install LVP Over a Concrete Subfloor
- 1
Test for Moisture and Level the Concrete
Before anything touches the floor, conduct a calcium chloride or plastic-sheet moisture test over 24–72 hours. Greek ground-floor slabs regularly read above the 3 lb/1,000 sq ft threshold that most manufacturers allow. If moisture is elevated, apply a penetrating concrete sealer or a roll-on moisture barrier rated for your LVP brand. Once dry, check flatness with a 1.8 m (6 ft) straightedge: any dip or hump greater than 3 mm must be filled with a floor-levelling compound and allowed to cure fully before you proceed.
- 2
Acclimate the Planks to the Room
Stack the unopened boxes flat in the room where they will be installed for a minimum of 48 hours — 72 hours is better during Greek summers when temperatures swing sharply between air-conditioned interiors and hot exteriors. Keep the room at its normal living temperature (18–28 °C). Acclimation allows the planks to reach dimensional equilibrium with the space, preventing expansion gaps from opening after installation.
- 3
Roll Out the Moisture Barrier (If Not Built In)
If your LVP does not include an attached underlayment, unroll a 6-mil polyethylene moisture barrier across the entire concrete surface. Overlap seams by at least 20 cm and tape them with moisture-barrier tape. Run the barrier 5–10 cm up each wall; you will trim it after laying the floor. Do not use thick foam underlayment under click-lock LVP unless the manufacturer specifically permits it — excessive cushion flex weakens the locking joints over time.
- 4
Lay the First and Last Rows, Then Fill In
Snap a chalk line 15–20 cm from the longest wall to establish a straight reference line — Greek apartments rarely have perfectly square rooms. Begin laying planks along this line with the tongue side facing into the room, leaving an 8–10 mm expansion gap at every wall using plastic spacers. Stagger end joints by at least 20 cm between adjacent rows. Click each plank into the previous row at a shallow angle, then press down until you hear and feel the lock engage. Use a pull bar and tapping block to close stubborn joints without damaging the locking profile.
- 5
Fit Around Obstacles and Install Trim
Use a jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool to cut planks around door frames, pipes, and floor drains — common features in Greek bathrooms and utility rooms. Undercut door casings with a hand saw so planks slide underneath rather than butting against the casing, producing a cleaner finish. Once all planks are laid, remove the spacers, trim the membrane flush with the wall, and install skirting boards or quarter-round moulding to cover the expansion gap. Caulk around wet-area thresholds with a flexible, waterproof sealant.
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FAQ
- Do I need to remove old tile before installing LVP on concrete in Greece?
- Not necessarily. If the existing tile is fully bonded, flat, and less than 3 mm proud of adjoining surfaces, most LVP manufacturers permit installation directly over it. Grout lines deeper than 1 mm should be filled with levelling compound first. Remove any loose, cracked, or hollow-sounding tiles before you begin, as they will create an unstable base and can cause the LVP joints to crack.
- How do I handle the high humidity in coastal Greek properties?
- Choose a 100% waterproof SPC (stone plastic composite) core rather than standard LVP or WPC if the property is within a few kilometres of the coast or has a history of damp. Apply a penetrating concrete moisture sealer before installation, maintain indoor relative humidity between 35% and 65% with an air conditioner or dehumidifier, and ensure the property is properly ventilated when unoccupied between rental periods. These steps together eliminate the conditions that cause edge curling and joint failure.
- Can LVP be installed in Greek apartments over underfloor heating (θέρμανση δαπέδου)?
- Yes, but with two conditions. First, the LVP must be rated for underfloor heating use — check that the manufacturer specifies a maximum surface temperature of at least 27 °C. Second, before installation, run the heating system at a low setting for several days to remove any residual moisture from the screed, then turn it off 24 hours before laying and for 24 hours after. Gradually ramp the system back up over a week to allow the planks to adjust without stress.