Domakihub How to Install a Shower Screen: Step-by-Step Guide
Get a watertight, professional-looking shower screen fitted in an afternoon — no plumber required.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 4 min read
A shower screen is one of the most practical upgrades you can make to any bathroom — whether it is your main home, a holiday rental, or a hotel room in Greece. The video above walks through the full installation with DIY expert Craig Phillips, while this guide breaks every stage into clear, repeatable steps. With the right prep and a few basic tools, the job takes a competent DIYer about two to three hours.
Why Shower Screens Beat Curtains in Greek Climates
In Greece, bathrooms — especially in coastal holiday rentals and older apartments — often deal with high humidity and limescale-rich water. Glass or polycarbonate shower screens dry faster than fabric curtains, resist mould growth more effectively, and are far easier to wipe down with a squeegee after each use. For short-let properties in particular, a clean screen signals quality to guests from the moment they walk in.
Fixed or hinged screens also reduce water spillage onto floor tiles, lowering the risk of slip hazards and grout damage — a real maintenance concern for owners managing properties remotely.
Choosing the Right Screen Before You Start
Measure the bath or shower tray width carefully before buying. Most standard bath screens are 700–800 mm wide; walk-in shower trays vary more widely. Confirm whether you need a hinged panel (which folds for easy access), a fixed panel, or a folding bi-fold design for tighter spaces. Check that the hinge side matches the layout of your bathroom — the screen should open away from the tap end so water does not spray out when you enter.
Also check the wall material behind the fixing points. Solid tile over concrete (common in Greek construction) takes a standard masonry drill bit and plastic rawlplugs. Hollow-core partition walls need cavity fixings. Knowing this before you pick up the drill avoids frustration mid-job.
How to Install a Shower Screen: 5 Steps
- 1
Measure, mark, and prepare the wall
Hold the wall channel (the vertical bracket that anchors the screen) against the wall at the hinge end of the bath or tray. Use a spirit level to confirm it is perfectly plumb, then mark the screw holes with a pencil. Remove the channel and drill pilot holes at each mark using a masonry bit sized to match your supplied rawlplugs — typically 6 mm for standard tile walls. Blow dust from the holes and press the rawlplugs in flush.
- 2
Seal the bottom of the bath or tray edge
Before fixing anything, run a thin, continuous bead of neutral-cure silicone sealant along the top edge of the bath rim or shower tray lip where the screen will sit. Neutral-cure silicone is essential on or near natural stone or metal surfaces — acetoxy ("vinegar-smell") silicone corrodes some finishes. Smooth the bead with a wetted finger and let it skin over for 10–15 minutes before proceeding. This seal is what stops water tracking under the frame.
- 3
Fix the wall channel and bottom seal strip
Align the wall channel over the drilled holes, insert the screws, and tighten until firmly seated — do not overtighten on tiled walls as this can crack grout. Fit the bottom seal strip (usually a rubber or nylon profile) along the bath rim according to the manufacturer's instructions; on most models it clips or slides into a groove in the frame. Wipe away any excess silicone that squeezes out from the edges.
- 4
Hang and adjust the glass panel
Lift the glass panel into the wall channel — have a second person hold it steady, especially for panels over 1.5 m tall. Slot the hinges into the channel and tighten the grub screws or bolts hand-tight first. Check the panel swings freely and closes flush against the bath edge, then adjust the hinge angle using the adjustment screws until the panel sits level and the bottom seal presses evenly along the rim. Tighten all fixings fully once the alignment is correct.
- 5
Apply final sealant and cure before use
Run a neat bead of the same neutral-cure silicone along the internal joint between the wall channel and the wall tiles, and along any internal bath-edge joint. Smooth, remove masking tape if used, and leave the screen completely untouched for a minimum of 24 hours — ideally 48 — before running water. Rushing this stage is the single most common cause of leaks. Once cured, test by running the shower on full and checking every joint and the bottom seal strip for any drips.
Rather have a pro handle it?
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FAQ
- Do I need to turn off the water to install a shower screen?
- No. A shower screen is a fixed glass or acrylic panel and does not connect to any plumbing. You only need to turn off the water if you are also replacing the taps or showerhead at the same time.
- How long does the silicone sealant need to dry before I can use the shower?
- Allow at least 24 hours and ideally 48 hours for silicone to fully cure. Using the shower too soon can break the seal before it sets, leading to leaks along the frame and bath edge.
- My tiles are hollow behind the fixing points — can I still install the screen?
- Yes, but use cavity-wall fixings (also called hollow-wall anchors) instead of standard rawlplugs. These expand behind the tile to grip the void. Avoid drilling into grout lines where possible, as grout is weaker than the tile itself and can crack under load.