Domakihub How to Install a Kitchen Splashback the Right Way
A practical step-by-step guide for homeowners, rental managers, and renovation teams in Greece.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
A well-fitted kitchen splashback does two jobs at once: it shields your walls from grease and steam while giving the space a clean, finished look that guests and tenants notice immediately. The video above walks through the full process on camera, and this article breaks it into five clear steps you can follow at your own pace. Whether you are refreshing a holiday rental on the Aegean coast or renovating a city-centre apartment in Athens, this guide covers everything from surface prep to final grouting.
Choosing the Right Splashback Material
The most common choices are ceramic or porcelain tiles, glass panels, and solid acrylic sheets. Tiles give the most design flexibility — they come in every colour and format, including the ever-popular metro brick — and they are easy to find at any Greek builders' merchant. Glass panels are sleek and wipe-clean in seconds, making them ideal for high-turnover holiday rentals, but they must be cut to size before delivery and are heavier to handle alone. Acrylic sheets are the lightest and most DIY-friendly option, though they scratch more easily over time.
For kitchens in coastal properties or areas with high humidity, choose rectified porcelain tiles with a low water-absorption rating. Grout joints sealed with epoxy or silicone grout resist mould far better than standard cement grout, which matters enormously in a busy rental kitchen.
Tools and Materials to Gather First
Before you start, collect everything you need so the job does not stall midway. For a tiled splashback you will need: adhesive tile mortar (white is best behind light-coloured tiles), notched trowel, tile cutter or angle grinder with a diamond blade, spirit level, tile spacers, grout, grout float, silicone sealant, painter's tape, and a clean bucket and sponge. A laser level saves significant time when setting out the first row.
For glass or acrylic panels, swap the adhesive mortar for a panel adhesive recommended by the manufacturer, add a suction cup lifter for safe handling, and keep extra silicone on hand for the perimeter seal. Always read the adhesive data sheet — pot life and open time vary, and in the Greek summer heat they shorten noticeably.
How to Install a Kitchen Splashback: 5 Steps
- 1
Prepare the wall surface
Turn off the electricity at the fuse board and remove socket covers and switch plates in the work zone. Strip away any old tiles, adhesive residue, or flaking paint. The wall must be clean, dry, flat, and dust-free — run a straightedge across the surface and fill dips deeper than 3 mm with tile levelling compound. Let it cure fully before moving on. Skipping this step is the single most common reason splashbacks crack or detach later.
- 2
Mark a level starting line
Find the lowest point of your overhead cabinets or the highest point of your worktop, then use a spirit level or laser level to draw a perfectly horizontal pencil line across the full width of the splashback area. This line is your baseline — every tile or panel aligns to it. A crooked first row will compound through every subsequent row, so take your time here. Temporarily nail a batten along this line to support the first row while the adhesive sets.
- 3
Apply adhesive and set the first row
Mix tile adhesive to a smooth, lump-free consistency and spread it onto the wall with the flat side of a notched trowel, then comb it with the notched side to create even ridges. Work in sections of about 60 cm wide so the adhesive does not skin over before you place the tiles. Press each tile firmly against the wall with a slight twisting motion and use spacers to maintain consistent joints. Check frequently with your level — adjust before the adhesive grabs. For glass or acrylic panels, follow the same principle but apply adhesive in the spots or continuous beads specified by the manufacturer.
- 4
Cut around sockets, switches, and edges
Mark cut lines on tiles with a pencil or tile marker, score along the line with a tile cutter, and snap or grind to size. For curved or L-shaped cuts around socket boxes, use an angle grinder with a diamond blade and wear eye protection and a dust mask. In Greece, socket boxes are often recessed differently than in northern European kitchens, so dry-fit each cut piece before applying adhesive. Seal around every socket cutout with silicone once the grout is cured — this is a fire safety requirement, not just an aesthetic one.
- 5
Grout, seal, and finish
Once the adhesive has cured (typically 24 hours, longer in cool or humid conditions), remove spacers and mix grout to a firm paste. Work it diagonally across the joints with a rubber grout float, packing every joint fully, then wipe the face of the tiles clean with a damp sponge before the grout skins. After the grout has cured (24–48 hours), apply a bead of colour-matched silicone along the joint between the splashback and the worktop and along any internal corners — never grout these movement joints or they will crack. Once dry, refit socket covers and restore power.
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FAQ
- Can I tile directly over existing kitchen tiles?
- Yes, provided the existing tiles are fully bonded, flat, and free of loose pieces. Lightly sand the surface with 80-grit paper to give the adhesive something to key into, then use a flexible tile-on-tile adhesive. Bear in mind that tiling over existing tiles raises the wall surface, so socket boxes and switch plates may need spacer frames to bring them flush.
- How do I cut tiles around a socket without cracking them?
- Mark the cutout carefully with a pencil, then use an angle grinder fitted with a thin diamond blade for straight cuts and a jigsaw with a tile blade for internal corners. Work slowly and keep the tile supported flat. Ceramic tiles crack if unsupported at the edge during cutting. Always dry-fit the cut piece before spreading adhesive.
- What is the best grout colour for a kitchen splashback in a holiday rental?
- Mid-grey grout is the most practical choice for rentals. It hides light soiling between deep cleans far better than white grout, and it complements virtually every tile colour from stark white metro tiles to natural stone-look porcelain. Seal cement-based grout with a penetrating grout sealer once fully cured to resist oil and moisture staining.