Domakihub How to Install a Bathroom Vanity the Right Way
A practical step-by-step guide for homeowners, landlords, and holiday rental managers.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
A new bathroom vanity is one of the highest-impact upgrades you can make to a home, rental apartment, or hotel room — and the installation is well within reach for a confident DIYer or a local handyman. The Lowe's video above walks through the full process visually; this article breaks it into clear, numbered steps so you can plan the job, buy the right materials, and avoid the most common mistakes. Whether you are refreshing a summer villa in Crete or modernising a city apartment in Athens, the method is the same.
What to Know Before You Start
Bathroom vanities come in freestanding, wall-mounted, and pedestal styles. For most Greek apartments and holiday rentals, a freestanding cabinet with an integrated basin is the most practical choice: it hides plumbing, provides storage, and tolerates the older pipe layouts common in Greek construction.
Before ordering your vanity, measure the existing footprint carefully — width, depth, and height — and note the positions of the supply lines (hot and cold) and the waste drain. A vanity that is even a few centimetres too wide can block a door swing or make the room feel cramped.
Tools and Materials You Will Need
You will need an adjustable wrench, silicone sealant, Teflon (PTFE) tape, a spirit level, wall anchors suitable for your wall type (tile, plasterboard, or concrete block — all common in Greece), a pipe cutter or hacksaw, and flexible supply hoses if the new unit sits at a different height than the old one.
Have a bucket and old towels on hand before you disconnect the water — even after shutting off the supply valve there is residual water in the lines. Pick up a tube of bathroom-grade silicone in a colour that matches your grout; you will use it to seal the vanity top to the wall.
How to Install a Bathroom Vanity: 5 Steps
- 1
Shut off the water and remove the old unit
Close the isolation valves under the existing sink (or the main bathroom stopcock if there are none). Open the tap to release pressure, then disconnect the supply hoses with an adjustable wrench. Place your bucket under the P-trap, unscrew the slip-joint nuts, and remove the waste pipe. Unscrew any wall fixings holding the old cabinet or pedestal in place, lift it free, and set it aside. Patch or sand the wall area where needed before proceeding.
- 2
Position the new vanity and mark the wall
Slide the new cabinet into position — do not push it fully against the wall yet. Use a spirit level to confirm it sits perfectly horizontal; shim the base with plastic packers if the floor is uneven (common in older Greek buildings). Once level, mark the wall through the cabinet's pre-drilled fixing holes or, for a wall-hung unit, mark the bracket positions. Drill pilot holes, insert the correct wall anchors for your wall type, and secure the vanity firmly.
- 3
Connect the supply lines
Wrap PTFE tape clockwise around the threaded ends of the supply valves — two or three turns is enough. Attach the flexible braided hoses: hand-tighten first, then add a quarter-turn with a wrench. Do not over-tighten or you risk cracking the valve body. Connect the other end of each hose to the faucet inlet beneath the basin (most pre-assembled vanities arrive with the faucet already fitted; if not, install it before the cabinet goes against the wall).
- 4
Hook up the waste drain
Fit the P-trap assembly to the drain outlet on the basin floor, then route it to meet the wall waste pipe. Most kits include an adjustable extension tube so you can align the trap regardless of height differences. Hand-tighten all slip-joint nuts, then snug them up firmly — just firm, not overtightened, or the plastic threads will strip. Check that the trap dips below the drain outlet so it holds a water seal that blocks sewer gases.
- 5
Seal, test, and finish
Run a neat bead of bathroom-grade silicone along the joint where the vanity top or backsplash meets the wall tiles. Smooth it with a wet finger and leave it to cure for the time stated on the tube (usually 24 hours) before getting it wet. Once cured, slowly open the supply valves and watch for any drips at every joint. Run water down the drain and check the P-trap for leaks. Dry the area and inspect again after five minutes. Fit cabinet doors, handles, and any mirror or light fitting to complete the look.
Rather have a pro handle it?
Get a vetted plumbing pro in your city — one number, booked in EN/EL/DE.
FAQ
- Do I need a licensed plumber to install a bathroom vanity in Greece?
- For a straightforward swap — same pipe positions, no structural changes — a competent handyman can handle it legally. However, if you need to move supply lines, cut into the wall, or the property is a registered rental subject to Greek technical inspection, bringing in a licensed plumber (ydravlikos) protects you and satisfies insurance requirements.
- How long does a bathroom vanity installation typically take?
- A direct replacement with no pipe relocation takes most experienced DIYers or handymen two to four hours, including removing the old unit and cleaning up. Allow extra time if you discover corroded or non-standard pipe fittings, which are common in Greek buildings older than 30 years.
- What type of vanity works best in a humid Greek bathroom with poor ventilation?
- Look for cabinets rated for humid environments — solid wood frames with moisture-resistant MDF panels or PVC cabinetry are both good choices. Avoid particleboard core units, which swell and delaminate quickly in bathrooms without adequate airflow. A wall-hung design also helps, as it keeps the cabinet base off a potentially damp floor.