Domakihub How to Get Rid of Rats in Your Home for Good
A practical, step-by-step guide for homeowners, landlords, and property managers dealing with a rat infestation.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Rats are one of the most damaging pests a home, holiday rental, or hotel in Greece can face — they gnaw through wiring, contaminate food, and spread disease faster than most property owners realise. The video above walks through the full trapping and control process end to end; this article breaks it down into clear steps with Greek property conditions in mind. Follow this guide whether you are dealing with a first sighting or an established infestation.
Why Rats Are a Particular Problem in Greek Properties
Greece's warm climate, abundant olive groves, tourism waste, and older building stock create near-ideal conditions for rats year-round. The common brown rat (Rattus norvegicus) typically nests in basements, roof cavities, and garden waste areas, while the black rat (Rattus rattus) favours roof spaces — a common feature of older island villas and hotel buildings.
Holiday rentals left vacant for weeks at a time are especially vulnerable: with no human activity to deter them, rats can establish a colony quickly. Catching the problem early — at the first droppings, gnaw marks, or scratching sounds at night — is always cheaper and less disruptive than dealing with a mature infestation.
Signs You Have Rats (Not Mice)
Rat droppings are 10–20 mm long and capsule-shaped, noticeably larger than mouse droppings. Other reliable signs include greasy rub marks along skirting boards and walls (from the oils in rat fur), gnaw marks with rough edges on wood or cabling, and burrows or digging near foundations, garden borders, or compost bins.
If you hear heavy scratching or thumping in walls or ceilings at night, that weight indicates rats rather than mice. A musky, ammonia-like smell in enclosed spaces is another strong indicator. Confirming the species matters because the trap sizes, bait stations, and entry-point sealing required differ between rats and mice.
How to Get Rid of Rats: 5 Steps
- 1
Inspect and map every entry point
Walk the entire perimeter of the building at dusk, when rats are most active. Look for gaps larger than 1–2 cm around pipes, drains, air vents, utility penetrations, and where the roof meets walls. Use a torch to check inside cupboards, under sinks, and behind appliances. Mark every gap on a simple sketch — you will need to seal all of them, not just the obvious ones, or the infestation will return.
- 2
Remove all food and harborage sources
Rats stay where food and shelter are easy to find. Transfer all dry food and pet food to sealed metal or thick plastic containers. Move rubbish bins away from the building and use bins with locking lids. Clear garden debris, woodpiles, and overgrown vegetation within 1–2 metres of the structure. For holiday rentals, do a full clearance between stays — crumbs under appliances and forgotten food in cupboards are enough to sustain a small colony.
- 3
Set snap traps in the right locations
Snap traps are the fastest and most reliable method for a confirmed rat infestation. Place them along walls and in corners — rats travel flush to vertical surfaces. Position the trigger end against the wall, not facing into open space. For bait, a pea-sized amount of peanut butter, chocolate, or nesting material (such as cotton wool) works well. Set at least two traps per suspected run, and check them every 24 hours. Wear gloves when handling traps and dead rodents.
- 4
Seal all entry points with rat-proof materials
Once trapping activity slows, seal every gap you mapped in Step 1. Use steel wool packed tightly into holes as an immediate block — rats cannot gnaw through it — then cover with wire mesh, metal flashing, or mortar for a permanent fix. Fit bristle or rubber door sweeps on any exterior door with a visible gap. For drainpipes and air vents, install mesh rat guards. This step is what prevents re-infestation; skipping it means new rats will move in within weeks.
- 5
Monitor and follow up for at least four weeks
Leave a few unset traps in position and check for fresh droppings or gnaw marks every few days for a month after activity appears to have stopped. A single pregnant female can restart a colony, so a brief monitoring period is essential. If activity continues after two weeks of active trapping, or if the infestation covers a large area such as an attic or subfloor, contact a licensed pest control company — Greek law (Νόμος 4235/2014) requires certified operators for commercial baiting with rodenticides in properties used for food handling or hospitality.
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FAQ
- Is it safe to use rodenticide (rat poison) in a holiday rental or hotel?
- Rodenticides must be placed inside tamper-resistant bait stations and kept completely out of reach of guests, children, and pets. In Greece, their use in food-handling areas and hospitality properties is regulated and must be carried out by a licensed pest control operator. For most residential and rental contexts, snap traps are safer, faster-acting, and easier to manage without professional help.
- How long does it take to get rid of a rat infestation?
- A small infestation caught early — a few rats, no established colony — can typically be resolved in one to three weeks of active trapping combined with entry-point sealing. A larger or well-established infestation (signs of nesting, multiple runs, attic or subfloor involvement) often takes four to eight weeks and may require professional intervention. The sealing step is what determines whether the problem stays solved.
- What is the most effective rat deterrent to prevent them coming back?
- There is no single deterrent that works reliably on its own. The most effective long-term approach is a combination of physical exclusion (sealed entry points), ongoing cleanliness (no accessible food or harborage), and periodic inspection — especially at the start of autumn when rats seek warm shelter. Ultrasonic repellers and natural repellents such as peppermint oil have very limited evidence behind them and should not replace structural prevention.