Domakihub How to Get Rid of Ants in the House for Good
Find where they enter, cut off their food supply, and treat the nest — not just the trail.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Ants are one of the most common nuisances in Greek homes, holiday rentals, and hotels — especially during the hot, dry summer months when they move indoors searching for water and food. The video above walks through the key control methods visually; this guide adds the step-by-step process so you can work through the problem systematically. Whether you are dealing with a handful of scouts or a full trail across the kitchen, the approach is the same: remove what attracts them, seal the entry points, and target the colony.
Why Ants Enter Buildings in Greece
Greece's warm climate means ant colonies are active almost year-round, but infestations peak in summer when outdoor soil dries out and heat drives insects indoors. The most common culprit is the black garden ant (Lasius niger), though sugar ants, pavement ants, and the larger carpenter ant also appear in and around buildings. They are not random visitors — they follow pheromone trails laid by scouts who have already found food or moisture inside your property.
Holiday rental properties are particularly vulnerable because kitchens are often used briefly then left unattended, crumbs accumulate between guest stays, and doors and windows are opened frequently. Hotels face similar pressure on ground-floor kitchens and outdoor dining areas. The good news is that the same straightforward control measures work in every setting.
When to Call a Professional
Most ant problems respond well to the DIY steps below within one to two weeks. However, if you see large, winged ants emerging from wall voids or wooden beams, you may be dealing with carpenter ants, which excavate timber and require professional treatment. Persistent infestations that return within days despite thorough cleaning and bait placement also warrant a licensed pest controller, especially in food-service or hospitality settings where health regulations apply.
5 Steps to Get Rid of Ants
- 1
Find the trail and trace it to the entry point
Follow the ant trail backward from where you first see it. Ants travel in lines because they follow a chemical scent path laid by scouts. Trace the line to the wall, baseboard, window frame, or door seal where they enter. Mark every gap you find — you will seal all of them in step three. Knowing the entry point also tells you where to place bait most effectively.
- 2
Remove every food and moisture source
Wipe down counters, sweep floors, and store all food — including fruit on the counter, pet food bowls, and crumbs behind appliances — in sealed containers. Empty and clean rubbish bins daily while the infestation is active. Fix any dripping taps or pipes under the sink: ants are often after water as much as food, and a damp kitchen cupboard is as attractive as a spilled soft drink.
- 3
Seal entry points with silicone or sealant
Use a silicone caulk or weatherstrip to close every gap around pipes, window frames, door thresholds, and baseboards you identified in step one. This does not kill the existing colony, but it forces ants to expose themselves by searching for a new route in, making baits and sprays more effective. Pay special attention to the points where utility pipes enter the building from outside.
- 4
Place slow-acting bait at the trail, not on it
Bait is far more effective than spray for most household ant species because workers carry it back to the queen. Place gel bait or bait stations beside the trail — never on it, as this disrupts the trail and reduces pick-up. Use a product containing borax (boric acid) or hydramethylnon. Expect to see more ants for two to three days as workers recruit heavily to the food source; resist the urge to spray, which kills foragers before they deliver the bait to the nest.
- 5
Treat the exterior perimeter and nest if visible
Once interior bait is working, apply an insecticide barrier spray along the exterior base of the building, focusing on the entry points you sealed. If you can locate the nest outdoors — look for a small mound or loose soil near foundations, paving slabs, or garden walls — drench it directly with a diluted insecticide or boiling water as a non-chemical option. Repeat the exterior treatment every four to six weeks through summer.
Rather have a pro handle it?
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FAQ
- Does vinegar or lemon juice actually repel ants?
- These acidic liquids temporarily disrupt the pheromone trail ants follow, which can reduce activity in one spot, but they do not kill the colony or stop scouts from laying a new trail nearby. They are useful as a quick clean-up spray to remove trail residue from surfaces, but should be used alongside bait rather than as a standalone solution.
- How long does it take for ant bait to work?
- Most slow-acting baits begin to reduce ant numbers within three to five days and eliminate the visible infestation within one to two weeks. The mechanism is intentional: workers must have time to carry the bait back to the queen and larvae. If the problem persists beyond two weeks, check that the bait has not dried out, replace it with a fresh application, and confirm you have not accidentally used a spray that disrupted the trail.
- Are ant infestations a sign of an unclean property?
- Not necessarily. Even spotless homes and well-run hotels get ants, particularly during dry Greek summers when the insects are simply looking for water. A single crumb or a condensation drip under the fridge is enough to attract scouts. The infestation reflects opportunity, not overall hygiene. The key is removing that opportunity consistently and sealing the structural gaps that let ants in from outside.