Domakihub Fix a Dripping Shower Arm: Stop the Leak for Good
A leaking shower arm wastes water and signals worn seals — here is how to diagnose and fix it yourself.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 4 min read
A dripping shower arm — the pipe that juts from the wall and holds your shower head — is one of the most common plumbing nuisances in Greek homes, holiday rentals, and hotel rooms alike. Left unchecked it wastes thousands of litres per year and encourages damp behind the tiles. The video above shows the repair in real time; the steps below walk you through the same process with the specific materials and precautions relevant to properties in Greece.
What causes a shower arm to drip?
The shower arm threads into a fitting that is embedded in the wall. Over time the PTFE (Teflon) tape or thread sealant on those threads degrades, allowing water to seep out at the base where the arm meets the wall escutcheon plate. A second common cause is a cracked or corroded arm itself, especially in older properties where lime-scale buildup has weakened the pipe.
A leak at the joint between the arm and the shower head is a separate issue — that is typically a worn rubber washer inside the head's inlet, not the arm — and the fix is even simpler.
When to call a licensed plumber instead
If the drip originates inside the wall — visible as damp patches on the plasterwork or tiles, or audible as running water when everything is turned off — the wall fitting or the supply pipe itself may be cracked. That repair requires opening the wall and working on pressurised pipework, which under Greek building regulations must be performed or certified by a licensed plumber (υδραυλικός με βεβαίωση).
A simple shower arm swap at the wall surface is well within DIY territory. If you are unsure which scenario you are dealing with, turn off the main water valve, unscrew the existing arm, and inspect the threaded wall socket for corrosion or cracks before proceeding.
How to fix a dripping shower arm — 5 steps
- 1
Turn off the water supply
Close the isolation valve for the bathroom (usually under the bath panel or in a service cupboard) or the main stopcock for the property. Open the shower briefly to release residual pressure and confirm the flow has stopped. Place a cloth or small bucket in the shower tray to catch any drips during the repair.
- 2
Remove the shower head and escutcheon plate
Unscrew the shower head by hand or with an adjustable wrench — always wrap the jaws with tape or cloth to protect chrome finishes. Slide off the decorative escutcheon (wall cover plate) to expose the base of the shower arm where it enters the wall fitting. Note whether the existing arm is bent (angled) or straight, so you can source an identical replacement if needed.
- 3
Unscrew the old shower arm
Grip the arm near the wall with one pair of grips and use a second adjustable wrench on the arm itself, turning anticlockwise. The arm may be stiff from years of lime scale; apply penetrating lubricant (e.g. WD-40) and leave it for five minutes if it will not budge. Once removed, clean any old tape, sealant, or corrosion from the wall socket threads using a wire brush or toothbrush.
- 4
Apply PTFE tape and fit the new arm
Wrap the male threads of the new shower arm with two to three layers of PTFE tape, winding in the direction of the thread so it does not unravel as you screw in. Thread the arm into the wall socket by hand first — this avoids cross-threading — then tighten firmly with the wrench. Do not over-torque; once snug and correctly aligned (arm pointing slightly upward) is sufficient. Slide the escutcheon back over the arm and press it against the wall.
- 5
Reattach the shower head and test
Wrap the shower head thread with fresh PTFE tape as well, screw the head on hand-tight, and give it a quarter turn with the wrench. Restore the water supply slowly and watch the wall escutcheon and the head joint carefully for five minutes at full pressure. A dry result confirms the repair is complete. If a small weep persists at the wall, shut off again, remove the arm, add one more layer of tape, and refit.
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FAQ
- Can I reuse the existing shower arm, or must I buy a new one?
- If the arm is straight, crack-free, and its threads are in good condition, you can clean off the old PTFE tape and refit it with fresh tape. However, a replacement arm costs very little (typically €5-15 in any Greek plumbing merchant or hardware chain), so replacing it while you have everything apart is good practice — particularly in rental properties where reliability matters.
- What PTFE tape should I use? Is there a difference between types?
- Standard white PTFE tape (sold as ταινία τεφλόν at any εμπόριο υδραυλικών) works fine for cold and hot water lines up to around 60 °C. For higher-temperature systems or gas lines, yellow gas-grade PTFE tape is required, but this is not applicable to a domestic shower arm. Use at least two full wraps; three is more reliable.
- The leak is at the base of the shower head, not the wall. Is the fix the same?
- No. A drip at the head-to-arm joint is almost always a failed rubber washer (σφραγίδα) inside the shower head inlet, or simply insufficient tape on that thread. Remove the head, check the rubber washer and replace it if it is flattened or cracked, apply fresh PTFE tape to the arm thread, and reattach. This is a two-minute fix that requires no tools beyond your hands.