Domakihub How to Fit Kitchen Cabinet Carcasses Like a Pro
A step-by-step guide to levelling, securing and squaring base and wall units before any doors go on.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Fitting kitchen cabinet carcasses is the structural backbone of any kitchen renovation — get it wrong and every door, drawer and worktop will fight you for years. The video above walks through the base-unit sequence with clear trade commentary; this article expands each stage into an actionable checklist you can follow whether you are renovating a family home in Athens, prepping a holiday villa in Crete or refreshing a hotel kitchenette. No gas connections, no load-bearing wall removals and no damp-proofing are involved in a standard carcass fit, but if your project touches any of those elements you will need a licensed professional before carcasses go in.
What Is a Cabinet Carcass and Why Does the Sequence Matter?
A carcass is the bare box of a kitchen unit — typically 18 mm moisture-resistant MDF or melamine-faced chipboard — before doors, drawer fronts and worktops are attached. Flat-pack kitchens from brands like IKEA (SEKTION), Nolte or local Greek suppliers all ship carcasses that you assemble with cam-lock fittings before fixing to the wall.
The fitting sequence matters because each carcass must be level with its neighbour before the next one goes in. A 3 mm drop across a run of base units sounds trivial but it translates into visible gaps under plinths, worktops that rock, and doors that swing open or refuse to close. Getting the first unit perfectly level and plumb is the single most time-saving thing you can do on a kitchen fit.
Tools, Materials and Prep You Need Before Starting
Gather these before touching a carcass: a long spirit level (at least 1200 mm), a laser level if available, a pencil, a stud finder, a drill/driver with SDS bit for masonry plugs, appropriate wall anchors for your wall type (hollow plasterboard fixings versus solid masonry plugs), M6 connector bolts or cabinet screws, adjustable leg levellers, shims, and a hand saw or jigsaw for scribing end panels. Greek properties often have thick rendered concrete or hollow terracotta block (Ytong) walls — identify your wall type first because fixings differ significantly.
Check that the floor is clear of old adhesive ridges or loose tiles before setting the first unit. A flat floor reduces the amount of adjustment needed on the leg levellers. Also confirm the positions of your plumbing supply and waste pipes and your electrical spur for the oven — the carcasses must be cut out or positioned to accommodate these before anything is fixed in place.
Five Steps to Fitting Kitchen Cabinet Carcasses
- 1
Strike the Level Line and Find the High Point
Use a long spirit level or a laser level to scan the entire floor run and identify the highest point — this is where your tallest leg leveller will be set at minimum extension. From the high point, measure up 870 mm (the standard EU base-unit height including worktop) and draw a continuous horizontal reference line across all the walls that will receive cabinets. This line is your worktop datum: every base unit is adjusted to it. Mark stud or masonry positions on the wall above and below the datum so you can hit solid fixing points later.
- 2
Assemble the Carcasses and Fit Leg Levellers
Assemble each carcass flat on the floor following the manufacturer's instructions — typically cam-lock dowels, then back panel clips. Fit adjustable leg levellers into the pre-drilled sockets at the four corners of each base unit before standing them up; trying to add levellers after the unit is upright and against the wall wastes time. For wall units, fit the hanging rail brackets to the back panel at this stage. Check each assembled carcass for square by measuring diagonals — they should match within 2 mm. A twisted carcass transfers the twist to every door and drawer front.
- 3
Set and Level the First Base Unit
Place the corner unit or the first unit at one end of the run (starting from a corner is conventional). Adjust the leg levellers until the top of the carcass sits precisely at the datum line, checking level side-to-side and front-to-back. Temporarily screw through the back rail into the wall to hold the unit stationary while you work. Do not fully fix yet. Pack any gap between the back of the carcass and a bowed wall with shims — carcasses must not be pulled out of square by overtightening wall screws against an uneven surface.
- 4
Add Subsequent Units, Clamp and Connect
Slide the next carcass into position, using offcuts or a spacer block to maintain the correct gap (usually 0 mm — flush face-to-face). Clamp the two carcasses together at the front stile and check they are flush. Connect them with M6 connector bolts or dedicated cabinet screws through pre-drilled holes, at the top and bottom. Check level again: adjustment on one unit can shift a neighbour. Repeat across the full run, then go back and drive all wall-fixing screws to full depth with wall anchors appropriate to your wall type. For wall units, fix the hanging rail to the wall first on a perfectly level line, then hang the carcasses on the rail and micro-adjust with the built-in hook eccentrics.
- 5
Check Plumb, Fit Plinths and Prepare for Worktop
Once all units are fixed, hold a long straight edge (or the spirit level on edge) across all the front faces of the base units — they should form a flat, co-planar surface. Any unit standing proud means a wall-fixing screw has pulled it forward; loosen, re-shim and re-drive. Snap the plinth clips onto the leg levellers and cut the plinth boards to length, mitring external corners at 45 degrees. Finally, mark the worktop cut lines on the top rails of the carcasses for any hob or sink cut-outs before the worktop is measured. Note: gas hob connections and all plumbing final connections must be completed by licensed tradespeople — the carcass work can be done by a competent DIYer or general carpenter, but a certified gas engineer (in Greece, a licensed DETEE technician) must make the gas connection and a licensed plumber must do the final under-sink connection.
Rather have a pro handle it?
Get a vetted renovation pro in your city — one number, booked in EN/EL/DE.
FAQ
- Do I need a building permit to fit new kitchen carcasses in Greece?
- A straightforward like-for-like kitchen cabinet replacement or a new kitchen fit within an existing room does not require a building permit in Greece. Permits are needed if you are moving or removing a structural wall, altering the building envelope, or changing gas supply routing. If in doubt, consult a licensed civil engineer (Politis Michanikos) before starting.
- What is the standard height and depth for base kitchen carcasses in Greece?
- The European standard — used by virtually all Greek kitchen suppliers — is 720 mm carcass height plus an 150 mm adjustable plinth, giving a finished worktop height of 870–900 mm depending on worktop thickness. Base carcass depth is typically 560 mm (to achieve a 600 mm worktop overhang). Wall units are most commonly 720 mm or 900 mm tall with a 300 mm depth, positioned so their base sits approximately 450–500 mm above the worktop.
- Can I fit kitchen carcasses myself or should I hire a carpenter in Greece?
- A confident DIYer with the right tools can fit flat-pack carcasses successfully, and many holiday rental owners in Greece do exactly this to control costs. However, if the run is long (over 4 metres), involves complex corner solutions like carousel or blind-corner units, or if the walls are badly out of plumb, a local fitted-kitchen carpenter (epiplopios) will save far more time and material than their labour cost. Domakihub can connect you with vetted kitchen carpenters across Greece.