Domakihub How to Fit Bathroom Cladding: A Step-by-Step Guide
Transform wet walls in hours using PVC or acrylic panels — no tiles, no grout, no mess.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Bathroom cladding — rigid PVC or acrylic wall panels clicked or glued over wet-zone walls — has become the renovation upgrade of choice for Greek holiday apartments, villas, and hotel bathrooms because it installs far faster than tile and stays watertight for years. The video above walks through a real transformation from bare plaster to finished walls; the steps below expand on the technique with the practical detail you need before you pick up a saw. Whether you are refreshing a studio in Athens or waterproofing a shower room in a Cycladic rental, this guide gives you the material knowledge to plan the job and the know-how to carry it out safely.
What Is Bathroom Cladding and Why Choose It?
Bathroom cladding refers to rigid wall panels — most commonly tongue-and-groove PVC (2,400 × 250 mm or similar) or large-format acrylic/composite boards — fixed directly onto a prepared wall substrate. Unlike ceramic tile, there are no grout lines to harbour mould, and the panels themselves are inherently waterproof. In Greece's humid coastal climate that matters: poorly grouted tiles are the leading cause of silent damp behind shower walls in rental properties.
Cladding is not a structural product and does not require a building permit in Greece for straightforward bathroom refurbishments. However, if you are moving drainage, adding an extractor fan that penetrates an external wall, or working on a listed building, check with your local municipality (Δήμος) or a licensed civil engineer first.
Tools, Materials, and Safety
For a standard shower enclosure or full bathroom fit-out you will need: PVC or acrylic panels (measure the wall area and add 10 % for waste), matching internal and external corner trims, edge/end-cap trims, start and ceiling trims, solvent-free waterproof adhesive (such as a grab adhesive rated for wet zones), stainless-steel panel pins or a cladding staple gun for tongue-and-groove systems, a fine-tooth saw or multi-tool for cuts, a spirit level, tape measure, pencil, and a silicone sealant in a matching colour for joints at the bath, tray, or floor.
Always ensure the room is ventilated when working with solvent-based adhesives. If the existing wall has active damp from a structural source — rising damp, a leaking pipe inside the wall, or water ingress from outside — identify and fix that cause before cladding over it. Covering active damp traps moisture and causes the substrate to deteriorate; if in doubt, call a damp-proofing specialist.
How to Fit Bathroom Cladding: 5 Steps
- 1
Prepare the Wall Surface
Strip any existing wallpaper, loose paint, or flaking plaster. The wall does not need to be perfect, but it must be structurally sound, dry, and free of mould. Kill any surface mould with a diluted bleach solution or proprietary fungicidal wash and allow to dry fully — at least 24 hours. On hollow or uneven plasterboard walls, use packers or a slim ply batten framework screwed flat so the panels have an even backing. Mark the stud positions with a pencil before you start so you have fixing points for the battens.
- 2
Mark Out and Fix Starting Trims
Measure the height of each wall from floor to ceiling at three points — bathrooms in older Greek buildings are rarely perfectly square. Take the shortest measurement as your panel cut length. Fix a horizontal 'H' or 'U' starting trim along the bottom of each wall at bath-panel or floor level using waterproof adhesive and stainless pins. Use a spirit level; a out-of-plumb base will compound error panel by panel. Fix vertical internal corner trims and any external corner trims next, again checking with the level. These trims give you the datum lines for every panel.
- 3
Cut Panels to Length and Apply Adhesive
Cut each panel to the measured height using a fine-tooth saw or multi-tool, cutting face-down to minimise chipping on the decorative surface. Apply a zig-zag bead of waterproof grab adhesive to the back of the panel, keeping adhesive away from the grooved edge so it does not squeeze out into the tongue-and-groove joint. For tongue-and-groove systems you can also run a thin bead into the groove of the previous panel for extra hold. Leave a 5–10 mm gap at the top that will be hidden by the ceiling trim — panels must be able to expand slightly in heat.
- 4
Fix Panels in Sequence and Lock Joints
Slide the first panel's tongue into the starting trim, press it flat to the wall, and secure the exposed grooved edge with stainless panel pins driven at 45° through the groove (secret-fixing). Slot the next panel's tongue into the groove of the first and repeat across the wall. Check every third panel with your spirit level and adjust before the adhesive sets. Around windows, sockets (which must be protected to at least IP44 in wet zones — check with a licensed electrician if in doubt), or pipe penetrations, template the shape onto the panel with a paper cutout and cut with a multi-tool or jigsaw.
- 5
Fit Trims, Seal All Joints, and Finish
Click or slide the ceiling trim over the top edge of the panels, pressing it against the ceiling. Apply a continuous bead of colour-matched, mould-resistant silicone sealant along every horizontal joint — where panels meet the bath rim, shower tray, or floor — and smooth with a wetted finger or sealant tool. Seal around any pipe penetrations in the same way. Allow the silicone to cure for the time stated on the packaging (typically 24 hours) before the shower or bath is used. Wipe panels down with a damp cloth to remove adhesive smears; avoid abrasive cleaners that scratch the surface.
Rather have a pro handle it?
Get a vetted renovation pro in your city — one number, booked in EN/EL/DE.
FAQ
- Can I fit bathroom cladding over existing tiles?
- Yes — this is one of the main reasons contractors and property owners choose cladding. As long as the existing tiles are fully adhered to the wall (tap each one: a hollow thud means loose), clean, and grease-free, you can glue panels directly over them. Fixing panel pins through tiles is not practical, so rely on a high-grab waterproof adhesive for the bond. Bear in mind that cladding over tiles adds a few millimetres of thickness, which may affect how bath or shower-screen frames sit.
- Do I need planning permission or a building permit in Greece to clad a bathroom?
- For a straightforward cosmetic bathroom renovation — replacing tiles with wall panels, changing sanitaryware — no building permit (οικοδομική άδεια) is required in Greece under current regulations. However, if the work involves moving load-bearing elements, rerouting drainage through an external wall, or altering a building in a protected area, you will need a licensed civil or mechanical engineer to supervise and obtain the relevant permit. When in doubt, ask your local Δήμος or consult a licensed professional before starting.
- How long does bathroom cladding last, and how do I maintain it?
- Quality PVC and acrylic bathroom panels are rated to last 10–20 years in normal use. They are maintained simply: wipe with a soft cloth and a mild bathroom cleaner. Avoid bleach sprays directly on coloured panels as prolonged use can dull the surface. The one maintenance task that matters is the silicone sealant at joints — inspect it annually and re-apply if it cracks or lifts, as a failing seal is the main entry point for moisture behind the panels.