Domakihub How to Drill Through Tiles Without Cracking Them
The right bit, the right speed, and a simple marking trick keep your tiles intact every time.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Drilling through wall or floor tiles is one of the most common small jobs in any home, holiday rental, or hotel room — but a single wrong move can crack an entire tile and turn a twenty-minute task into a full replacement. The video above walks through the technique visually; this guide breaks it into ordered steps with the reasoning behind each one so you know exactly what to do and why. Whether you are mounting a towel rail in a bathroom or fixing a soap holder in a guest apartment, these steps apply equally to standard ceramic and to the harder porcelain tiles that are now common across Greek properties.
Ceramic vs. Porcelain: Why the Tile Type Matters
Ceramic tiles are made from porous clay fired at lower temperatures. They are moderately hard, and a standard carbide-tipped masonry bit drills through them cleanly. Porcelain tiles are fired at much higher temperatures and are significantly denser — nearly as hard as glass. Trying to drill porcelain with a plain masonry bit will either ruin the bit, skate across the glaze, or crack the tile. A diamond-tipped drill bit (also called a diamond core bit) is the correct tool for porcelain and for any rectified or large-format tile.
If you are unsure which type you have, scratch the unglazed back edge gently with a carbide bit. Ceramic scratches easily; porcelain barely marks. Most tiles installed in Greece after 2010 in bathrooms and kitchens are porcelain, so when in doubt, buy the diamond bit.
When to Call a Licensed Professional
Drilling through tiles is DIY-friendly as long as you are mounting lightweight fixtures into stud or masonry behind the tile. However, if the wall is a load-bearing partition, or if you need to penetrate a damp-proof membrane (common in shower enclosures and basement walls), stop and consult a licensed building professional. Cutting through a damp-proof course voids its function and can lead to long-term water ingress — a serious structural and mould problem in the Greek climate. Similarly, if the tile sits directly above a concealed gas or water pipe that you have not located, professional advice before drilling is not optional; it is a legal and safety requirement.
Step-by-Step: Drilling Through Tiles Without Cracking
- 1
Mark the centre point and apply masking tape
Use a pencil or china marker to mark the exact centre of the hole on the tile face. Cut a short strip of painter's masking tape and lay it over the mark. Re-draw the centre point on top of the tape. The tape serves two purposes: it gives the drill bit a grippy surface to start on (preventing the bit from wandering across the slippery glaze) and it reduces chipping of the tile surface when the bit breaks through.
- 2
Select the correct bit and set the drill to rotation-only mode
Fit a carbide-tipped masonry bit for ceramic, or a diamond-tipped core bit for porcelain. This is critical: turn off hammer action entirely. Hammer action is designed for brick and concrete — on tile it transmits sharp percussion directly into the glaze and body, which causes instant cracking. Set your drill to its lowest speed setting; 200–400 RPM is ideal. High speed generates heat that destroys the coating on both carbide and diamond bits.
- 3
Start the hole at a slight angle, then straighten
Place the bit tip on the marked centre point and begin drilling at a 45-degree angle with very light pressure. This creates a small notch in the glaze that anchors the bit. After just two or three seconds — once you feel the bit has bitten into the surface — slowly bring the drill upright to 90 degrees and continue drilling straight in. Never start at full right-angle pressure on a smooth glazed surface; the bit will skate and score a line across the tile.
- 4
Keep the bit cool with water throughout
Heat is the primary reason bits fail and tiles crack. Every five to ten seconds, pause drilling and cool the bit tip with a small amount of water — a wet sponge held at the hole, a spray bottle, or a ring of plumber's putty filled with water placed around the hole all work well. For porcelain in particular, heat builds up much faster because of the tile's density. Maintain light, steady pressure; pressing hard generates more heat and increases the chance of cracking without speeding up the cut.
- 5
Break through slowly and clean up the hole
As you feel the bit approach the back of the tile, reduce pressure further. The moment of breakthrough is when chipping is most likely — let the bit find its own way through rather than pushing. Once through, remove the tape, clear away any dust with a dry brush, and check the hole diameter. If you need a larger hole for a pipe or cable grommet, use a diamond hole saw of the correct size rather than enlarging the existing hole with a standard bit, which risks cracking outward from the edge.
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FAQ
- Can I use a regular wood or metal drill bit on tiles?
- No. Standard twist bits for wood or metal have a cutting geometry designed for softer, ductile materials. On tile they will skate across the glaze, generate rapid heat, and either shatter the tile or snap the bit. Always use a carbide-tipped masonry bit for ceramic or a diamond-tipped bit for porcelain.
- What size hole do I drill for a standard wall plug (rawlbolt)?
- The most common wall plug sizes used in Greece for bathroom fittings are 6 mm and 8 mm. Check the plug packaging — it will specify the required drill diameter. For tiles, the drill bit diameter should match the plug diameter exactly; going slightly oversize in tile (unlike in plaster) risks a weak grip and can fracture the tile around the hole.
- My tile cracked during drilling — can it be repaired without a full replacement?
- A hairline crack in a tile cannot be reliably repaired to look new. If the crack runs through the glaze only and not through the body, some epoxy tile fillers in a matching colour can stabilise it cosmetically. If the body has fractured, replacement is the only proper fix. For holiday rentals and hotels especially, a cracked tile in a shower zone is a water-ingress risk and should be replaced promptly — use the same lot number or source a close match from the supplier.