Domakihub Stop Draughts Through Windows and Cut Heating Bills
A practical step-by-step guide to sealing leaky windows in any Greek home, rental, or hotel.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Even in Greece's mild climate, winter cold snaps and coastal winds push cold air through the gaps around window frames, pushing up heating costs and making rooms uncomfortable. The video above walks you through the tools and materials in real time; this article breaks the process into clear, ordered steps so you can work through each window at your own pace. Whether you manage a family home in Athens, a holiday villa in Crete, or a small hotel on the islands, sealing your windows is one of the fastest returns on a DIY afternoon.
Why Window Draughts Are a Bigger Problem Than You Think
Gaps around window frames can account for up to 25 percent of a building's total heat loss, according to energy efficiency research across European climates similar to Greece's. In a holiday rental that sits empty for months at a time, uncontrolled ventilation also drives up damp and mould risk — especially near the sea where salt-laden air accelerates timber and seal degradation.
Older aluminium and timber frames common in Greek construction from the 1970s through to the early 2000s are particularly prone to warping and seal failure. Even newer PVC frames lose their compression seals over time, and the result is the same: cold air in winter, dust and insects in summer, and higher energy bills year-round.
Choosing the Right Draught-Proofing Material
The product you choose depends on the type of window and how much the frame moves when it opens and closes. Self-adhesive foam strips (also called compressible strips) are the cheapest option and suit hinged casement windows where the frame presses flat against the seal when shut. For sliding sash windows or windows with uneven gaps, a brush-pile seal or EPDM rubber strip is more durable and handles irregular surfaces without losing contact. Silicone sealant handles the fixed gaps between the frame and the surrounding masonry — it does not compress, so only use it in places that do not move.
In Greece, foam strips and silicone cartridges are widely available at Praktiker, Leroy Merlin, and most local hardware stores (sidiro-emborika). Budget roughly 5–15 euros per window for materials, making this one of the most cost-effective home improvements available.
How to Draught-Proof a Window in 5 Steps
- 1
Locate every gap before you buy anything
Open the window fully and run your hand slowly around all four sides of the frame, then around the join between the frame and the wall. On a cold or windy day you will feel the air movement clearly. For a more precise check, hold a lit incense stick near the edges and watch for smoke deflection. Mark each gap with a piece of painter's tape so you do not lose track of them once you start working. Note whether the gap is in the opening casement (the moving part) or in the fixed surround — this determines which product you need.
- 2
Clean and dry all surfaces
Adhesive strips and silicone sealant both fail quickly on dusty, greasy, or damp surfaces. Wipe down the rebate (the groove or ledge the window closes against) with a damp cloth, then dry it thoroughly. If there is old foam or deteriorated rubber seal, pull it off completely and use a plastic scraper to remove any adhesive residue. Allow at least 30 minutes for surfaces to dry before applying new products, longer in humid coastal conditions.
- 3
Apply self-adhesive foam or rubber strip to the casement
Cut the foam or EPDM strip to length with scissors, cutting at a 45-degree angle at each corner so the strips meet neatly without gaps. Peel back about 10 cm of the backing paper, press the strip firmly into the rebate, and continue peeling and pressing along the full length. Work on one side at a time rather than peeling the entire backing at once to avoid the strip twisting. Close the window gently to test the compression — you should feel slight resistance but the window should still latch normally. If it does not close, the strip is too thick; switch to a thinner profile.
- 4
Seal fixed gaps between frame and wall with silicone
Load the silicone cartridge into a caulking gun and cut the nozzle at a 45-degree angle to give a bead roughly 5 mm wide. Hold the gun at 45 degrees to the gap and draw it steadily along the join in one smooth pass, keeping even pressure. Immediately smooth the bead with a wet finger or a caulking tool, then wipe away the excess with a damp cloth before it skins over (usually within 5–10 minutes). Leave the silicone to cure fully — typically 24 hours — before painting over it or exposing it to rain.
- 5
Test, adjust, and check after the first cold night
Once all products have cured, close every window and check from the inside on a windy or cold evening. Any remaining cold spots indicate a gap you missed or a strip that has not compressed properly. For persistent gaps on older timber frames that have warped badly, a secondary layer of brush-pile seal alongside the foam strip often closes the remaining air path. Keep a small roll of spare foam strip for yearly maintenance — in the Mediterranean sun the adhesive backing degrades faster than in northern climates, and a quick replacement each autumn takes only minutes per window.
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FAQ
- How long does self-adhesive foam draught strip last on windows in Greece?
- In Greece's strong UV environment, cheap foam strips may begin to compress permanently or peel away after one to two seasons, especially on south-facing windows. EPDM rubber strips are significantly more UV-resistant and typically last five or more years. Spending a little more on the better-quality material saves a repeat job every autumn.
- Can I draught-proof windows without removing them from the frame?
- Yes. All the methods in this guide — adhesive strips in the rebate, brush-pile seals on sliding sashes, and silicone at the frame-to-wall joint — are applied from the inside with the window in place. You only need to remove a window if the frame itself is so badly warped that no seal can bridge the gap, which is rare and usually means the window needs full replacement.
- Will draught-proofing make my home too airtight and cause condensation?
- Draught-proofing windows does reduce uncontrolled air infiltration, but windows alone are rarely the main ventilation path in a Greek home. As long as you retain a trickle vent (the small slot at the top of many modern frames) and open windows for at least a few minutes on dry days, indoor air quality is unaffected. If your home already has a condensation problem, address the cause — typically inadequate heating or poor insulation — before sealing draughts, so you do not trap humid air inside.