Domakihub Cut a Roller Blind to Size and Get a Perfect Fit
A practical sequence for trimming fabric and tube to fit any window recess, first time.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Greek window recesses — whether in a Cycladic villa, a city apartment, or a hotel room — rarely match the standard widths that off-the-shelf roller blinds come in. The video above walks through the full trimming process visually; this article breaks it into a reliable step-by-step sequence you can follow whether you are fitting out your own home, a holiday rental, or a guest room that needs a clean, professional result.
Why Standard Blinds Need Trimming
Most roller blinds sold in Greece — and across Europe — are manufactured in fixed widths: typically 60 cm, 90 cm, 120 cm, and 150 cm. Window recesses, particularly in older stone construction or renovated buildings, almost never land on those exact numbers. Fitting an oversized blind without trimming it means the roller either will not seat into the brackets at all or the fabric bunches against the frame and will not roll cleanly.
Trimming is not a workaround — it is the intended method. Blind manufacturers design their tubes and fabric with a cutting allowance built in. The key is cutting both the tube and the fabric to the correct lengths, in the right order, so the finished blind is centred and the fabric edge is clean enough to roll without catching.
What You Need Before You Start
You will need a tape measure, a pencil, a set square or steel rule, a fine-tooth hacksaw (for the metal or plastic roller tube), a sharp craft knife or rotary fabric cutter, a cutting mat or spare piece of board, and low-tack masking tape. Some blinds also include a plastic end cap that must be removed and refitted after cutting — check your packaging before you begin.
One item that many guides skip: a cloth or damp sponge to wipe the cut edge of the fabric immediately after trimming. Roller blind fabric frays minimally but wiping the edge removes loose threads and helps any heat-fused edging re-bond slightly, giving a much neater result.
The Cutting Sequence
- 1
Measure the recess and calculate your target width
Measure the inside width of the window recess at three points — top, middle, and bottom — and take the smallest figure. For a recess fit (blind sitting inside the frame), subtract 10 mm from that figure to allow the blind to move freely without rubbing. This is your target width. Write it down; you will use it twice — once for the fabric and once for the tube.
- 2
Mark and score the fabric
Unroll the blind fully onto a flat surface. Using a set square and pencil, mark your target width across the fabric from the fixed (non-cut) end. Apply a strip of low-tack masking tape along the cut line — this stabilises the weave while cutting. Score along the line firmly with a sharp craft knife guided by a steel rule, then complete the cut in one clean pass. Remove the tape and wipe the edge.
- 3
Cut the roller tube to length
The tube must be cut to the same target width as the fabric. Remove the end cap or pin from the side to be trimmed. Secure the tube on a stable surface and use a fine-tooth hacksaw to cut squarely at your mark. Work slowly — a rushed cut produces a burr that will crack the end cap when you refit it. File or sand any rough edge smooth before continuing.
- 4
Reattach the end cap and load the fabric
Press the end cap or drive pin firmly back onto the cut end of the tube. If the cap feels loose, a small strip of electrical tape wrapped around the tube before fitting the cap will take up the slack. Re-roll the fabric onto the tube, making sure it is sitting straight and centred — if the fabric drifts to one side the blind will not roll evenly. Check alignment before fixing anything permanently.
- 5
Fit the brackets and test the roll
Clip or screw the brackets into the recess at your required width, then seat the blind. Pull it down slowly for the first few rolls and watch the fabric edge — it should track straight. If it drifts slightly, most roller mechanisms allow a small tension adjustment via the pin end. Once the roll is clean and the fabric drops evenly, the job is done.
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FAQ
- Can I cut the blind from either end, or does it have to be a specific side?
- Always cut from the non-mechanism end — the side without the spring tension or chain drive. The mechanism end is factory-set and cutting it will damage the roller function. Most blinds mark the cuttable end clearly, but if yours does not, the fixed pin or end cap (rather than the chain or spring unit) is the side to trim.
- What if I cut the fabric too short by a few millimetres?
- A few millimetres of gap between fabric edge and bracket is not a functional problem — the roller tube spans the full width and the fabric simply leaves a small uncovered strip at the edge. In a recess installation this is usually hidden by the frame. If the gap is more than 10–15 mm, it will let in light at the side, which matters for bedrooms or holiday rentals where guests expect blackout performance.
- Do I need special tools, or will household scissors work on the fabric?
- Scissors produce a wavy, compressed edge on most roller blind fabrics, which causes the material to roll unevenly over time. A sharp craft knife guided by a steel rule gives a straight, clean cut. A rotary cutter (the kind used in sewing) is an even better option if you have one, as it slices through coated or blackout fabrics without dragging. Save the scissors for a last-resort trim of loose threads only.