Domakihub How to Build a Stud Wall: A Step-by-Step Guide
Divide a room, add a bathroom, or create a wardrobe alcove with a timber stud partition wall.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 6 min read
A timber stud wall is one of the most versatile renovations you can carry out in a home, holiday rental, or hotel room — splitting a large space, boxing in a bathroom, or carving out a wardrobe without touching the structural fabric of the building. The video above from Skill Builder walks through the entire build visually; this guide breaks it down into clear, ordered steps with the practical detail you need before picking up a saw. Because stud walls are non-structural (they carry no load from above), most homeowners and skilled tradespeople can build one without a building permit, but if you are removing or altering a load-bearing wall or adding plumbing and gas lines, a licensed engineer or installer must be involved.
What Is a Stud Wall and Where Can You Use One?
A stud wall — also called a partition wall or studwork partition — is a lightweight internal wall made from a timber or metal frame clad with plasterboard (drywall). The frame consists of a sole plate fixed to the floor, a head plate fixed to the ceiling, vertical studs at regular intervals, and horizontal noggings (short cross-pieces) that brace the studs and provide fixing points for shelves, radiators, or bathroom fittings.
In Greek residential and holiday-rental properties, stud walls are especially useful for splitting an oversize bedroom into two rentable units, enclosing a bathroom or en-suite in an open-plan space, or adding a utility cupboard. Because they are not structural, they do not require an engineer's stamp under Greek building regulations (OIK) — but any wall that encloses a bathroom will need a waterproof board (Aquapanel or moisture-resistant plasterboard) and correct ventilation, and any electrical or plumbing work inside must be carried out by a licensed electrician (ηλεκτρολόγος) or plumber (υδραυλικός).
Materials, Timber Sizes, and Spacing Rules
Standard UK/EU practice — widely followed by Greek tradespeople — uses 75 mm x 50 mm (3" x 2") C16-grade timber for the sole plate, head plate, and studs where plasterboard alone goes on both faces. Where tiles, heavy shelving, or a wall-hung toilet will be mounted, upsize to 100 mm x 50 mm. Studs are spaced at 400 mm centres for standard 12.5 mm plasterboard or 600 mm centres for thicker 15 mm board — both measurements are taken from the centre of one stud to the centre of the next ("on centre").
Noggings are cut from the same section timber and fitted horizontally at mid-height (roughly 1,200 mm from the floor). For walls taller than 2.7 m, add a second row of noggings. All timber should be dry (kiln-dried) and straight — wet or bowed timber will twist as it dries and crack the plasterboard finish. In damp rooms or ground-floor slabs, treat the sole plate with a preservative and lay a strip of DPC (damp-proof course) membrane beneath it before fixing.
How to Build a Stud Wall: 5 Steps
- 1
Survey, mark out, and check for services
Before cutting a single piece of timber, use a multi-detector (cable, pipe, and joist detector) to scan the floor, ceiling, and any adjacent walls in the area your new wall will cross. Mark the positions of any hidden services with tape. Snap a chalk line on the floor along the full intended run of the wall, then use a plumb bob or laser level to project that line vertically onto the ceiling. If you are tying in to a masonry wall at one or both ends, check whether you can screw into it directly or whether you need a frame batten first.
- 2
Fix the sole plate and head plate
Cut the sole plate (floor timber) to length, positioning it precisely on your chalk line. Where the new wall will have a door opening, mark and leave the door-width gap in the sole plate now — do not fix timber in the door zone. Drill through the sole plate and into the floor every 600 mm, then plug and screw with 100 mm screws (or use concrete anchors into a screed floor). For the head plate, fix directly into ceiling joists if they run perpendicular to your wall; if they run parallel, you may need to fit noggings between the joists above first to give a solid fixing. Both plates must be plumb with each other — check with a spirit level or laser before every screw goes in.
- 3
Install the vertical studs
Measure and cut each vertical stud individually — ceiling heights are rarely perfectly consistent across a room. Each stud should be a snug fit between sole plate and head plate (no gap, no bowing). Fit the two end studs first (the ones that meet the existing walls), securing them through the adjacent masonry or timber with frame fixings. Then fit the intermediate studs at your chosen 400 mm or 600 mm centres, toe-nailing or using metal stud connectors at top and bottom. Use a spirit level on every stud before fixing permanently. If the wall includes a door, install a full-height stud on each side of the opening, then add a horizontal head (lintel timber) across the top of the door at the required height.
- 4
Fit the noggings
Cut noggings from the same timber section and knock them in horizontally at mid-height between each pair of studs. Stagger them slightly (alternate high/low by about 25 mm) so you can drive screws straight through the adjacent stud faces rather than toe-nailing at an angle. Add extra noggings wherever you know a heavy item will hang — a television bracket, a towel rail, a wall-hung basin. If the wall will carry electrical sockets or switches, leave a deliberate gap between noggings to thread cable through; if it will contain plumbing, fit the pipework at this stage before boarding begins.
- 5
Board, tape, and finish
Fix 12.5 mm plasterboard to both faces of the frame using 42 mm drywall screws at 150 mm centres along the studs and 300 mm centres on noggings. Boards can run vertically (single sheet, no horizontal joint) or horizontally; either way, all vertical joints must fall on the centre of a stud. Sink screw heads just below the paper surface without breaking through it. Fill the joints with jointing compound and paper tape, applying two or three thin coats and feathering each coat wider than the last. Once dry, prime and paint, or skim-plaster the entire face for a perfectly smooth finish ready for tiles or wallpaper.
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FAQ
- Do I need a building permit to build a stud wall in Greece?
- A non-structural internal partition wall generally does not require a building permit (οικοδομική άδεια) under Greek regulations, as it does not alter the structural or external envelope of the building. However, if the renovation involves changing the floor plan of a registered apartment, connecting new plumbing, or is in a listed or protected building, check with a licensed architect or your local planning office (Πολεοδομία) before starting. In holiday rentals registered with the AADE short-term letting registry, any change to the room count or layout may need to be reflected in the declaration.
- Can I run electrical cables and plumbing inside a stud wall?
- Yes — this is one of the main advantages of a stud wall. Electrical cables should be run through holes drilled centrally in the studs (at least 50 mm from the face to protect against nails and screws) before boarding. In Greece, all fixed electrical installations must be carried out or signed off by a licensed electrician (εγκαταστάτης ηλεκτρολόγος), who will issue the required Declaration of Installation (Υπεύθυνη Δήλωση Εγκαταστάτη). Plumbing can also run inside the wall cavity but push-fit or compression fittings accessible via service panels are strongly preferred over soldered joints hidden permanently behind board.
- How do I make a stud wall soundproof?
- A bare timber stud wall with single-layer plasterboard on each face gives only modest sound reduction (around STC 33-35, adequate for a wardrobe but not a bedroom). To improve this, fill the stud cavity with acoustic mineral-wool insulation (e.g. Rockwool RW3 or equivalent), use double-layer plasterboard on each face (two layers of 12.5 mm board), and apply acoustic sealant around all perimeter gaps before the final coat of compound. For the best results — important in hotels or short-term rentals where guest reviews mention noise — consider a staggered-stud or independent-leaf construction, which breaks the rigid path that transfers vibration between the two faces.