Domakihub How to Build a Storage Bench That Lasts for Years
A practical woodworking project that adds seating and hidden storage to any room.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
A well-built storage bench pulls double duty: it gives you a place to sit while tucking away shoes, linens, or pool towels out of sight. The video above from This Old House walks through the full build so you can see how it comes together; this guide breaks down each stage so you can plan and execute the project confidently. Whether you are fitting out an entrance hall in a villa, adding seating to a holiday rental mudroom, or tidying a hotel corridor, the method is the same.
Why a Storage Bench Is Worth Building
A storage bench addresses two perennial problems in one piece of furniture: a lack of seating near doors and a shortage of enclosed storage. In Greek homes and holiday rentals especially, sandy shoes, beach bags, and extra towels need somewhere to go without cluttering living spaces. A custom-built bench fits the exact wall length you have, which no off-the-shelf product can match.
Timber and plywood are the most practical materials for this climate. Solid pine or birch-faced plywood resists normal humidity well, and a good coat of paint or oil seals the grain against the occasional damp towel draped over the lid.
Tools and Materials to Gather First
You need a circular saw or table saw for breaking down sheet goods, a drill-driver, pocket-hole jig (optional but helpful), clamps, sandpaper in 80 and 120 grit, and a tape measure. For a bench roughly 120 cm long, 45 cm deep, and 45 cm tall, budget one full sheet of 18 mm birch plywood, a length of 44×44 mm pine for internal blocking, wood glue, 50 mm screws, piano hinge or two smaller butt hinges, and your choice of finish.
If you want an upholstered lid, add a piece of 50 mm foam cut to size, a metre of fabric, and a staple gun. These materials are available at any large timber merchant or home-improvement retailer across Greece.
How to Build a Storage Bench: 5 Steps
- 1
Cut the plywood panels to size
Mark and cut six panels: two sides, a front, a back, a bottom, and a lid. For a 120×45×45 cm bench, the two side panels are 45×45 cm, the front and back are 120×45 cm, and the bottom is 120×45 cm minus twice the plywood thickness on each side dimension. Keep all cuts square; small errors here compound later. Label each panel before moving on.
- 2
Build and assemble the box
Glue and screw the front and back panels between the two side panels to form a rectangle, then attach the bottom panel inside from below. Use clamps to hold joints tight while the glue sets. If you have a pocket-hole jig, pocket screws give a clean, strong joint with no visible fasteners on the outside faces. Check the assembly for square by measuring diagonals — they should be equal.
- 3
Add internal blocking and finish the exterior
Cut short blocks of 44×44 mm pine and glue-screw them into each interior corner to reinforce the joints and stiffen the box. Sand all exterior faces starting with 80 grit and finishing with 120 grit. Fill any screw holes with wood filler, let dry, and sand flush. Apply two coats of paint, primer first, or a penetrating oil if you prefer a natural look.
- 4
Fit the lid and hinge it
Cut the lid panel so it sits flush on all four sides of the box. A piano hinge running the full length of the back edge gives the most even support and prevents the lid from racking over time. Alternatively, use two 75 mm butt hinges spaced evenly. Pre-drill all holes to avoid splitting, then attach the hinge to the lid first and lower it onto the back panel to mark the corresponding holes. A lid stay or soft-close lid support keeps the lid from falling back and is especially important if children will use the bench.
- 5
Upholster the lid (optional) and install
For a padded lid, cut foam to match the lid surface and spray-glue it in place. Lay your fabric face-down, set the lid foam-side down on top, pull the fabric taut, and staple to the underside every 5 cm, folding the corners like a parcel. Flip the bench upright, position it against the wall, and if the floor is uneven, use adjustable levelling feet screwed into the bottom. Add felt pads under any feet that rest on tiled or hardwood floors to prevent scratching.
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FAQ
- What is the best plywood thickness for a storage bench?
- 18 mm birch or pine-faced plywood is the standard choice. It is stiff enough to support an adult sitting on the lid without noticeable flex, and it machines cleanly with a sharp blade. Thinner 12 mm ply can work for a lightweight decorative bench but will need extra internal bracing at the corners and under the lid.
- How do I stop the lid from slamming shut?
- Fit a lid stay or soft-close lid support on one or both sides. These are small metal arms that attach to the inside of the front panel and the underside of the lid; they hold the lid open at roughly 90 degrees and let it close slowly. They are inexpensive and widely available at hardware stores.
- Can I build this bench without a table saw?
- Yes. A circular saw with a straightedge guide cuts plywood accurately enough for this project. Clamp a long spirit level or a piece of straight timber to the sheet as a fence, run the saw along it, and you will get cuts that are clean and square. A jigsaw works for curves if you want shaped legs or an arched front panel, though it requires more skill to keep the cut vertical.