Domakihub How to Build a Partition Wall: A Step-by-Step Guide
Divide a room, create a hallway, or add a home office without touching your load-bearing structure.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 6 min read
A partition wall is one of the most practical renovation jobs you can tackle in a Greek home, holiday rental, or boutique hotel — it lets you subdivide a large room, create a private hallway, or carve out a dedicated office without altering the building's structure. The video above walks through the framing process from scratch; this guide adds the planning steps, material choices suited to Greece's climate and masonry-heavy construction, and the moments where a licensed tradesperson should take over. Done right, a non-load-bearing partition wall is a weekend job for a skilled DIYer or a one-day task for a competent builder.
Load-Bearing vs. Non-Load-Bearing: Know the Difference First
Before picking up a single tool, confirm the wall you plan to build is truly non-load-bearing. In Greece most buildings use reinforced-concrete (RC) frames — the columns and beams carry all structural loads, so interior partition walls sit freely between them and carry nothing above. However, in older stone-built or mixed-masonry structures common in island villages and pre-1985 mainland construction, some internal walls can be load-bearing. If you are unsure, consult a licensed civil engineer (πολιτικός μηχανικός) before proceeding. Cutting or building against a load-bearing wall without engineering sign-off is both dangerous and illegal.
In RC-frame buildings a new partition wall generally does not require a building permit (οικοδομική άδεια) as long as it is purely internal, does not change the facade, and does not move plumbing or gas lines. If your partition will house electrical outlets, new plumbing runs, or crosses a damp zone such as a bathroom, you will need a licensed electrician or plumber to carry out that portion of the work.
Materials: Timber Stud vs. Metal-Profile Drywall
Two systems dominate partition-wall construction today. Timber stud walls use 70 × 45 mm or 75 × 50 mm C16/C24 timber noggins fixed to a sole plate and head plate; they are familiar to most Greek builders and easy to cut on site. Metal-profile (plasterboard/γυψοσανίδα) systems use galvanised steel tracks and studs — typically 70 mm or 100 mm profiles — with one or two layers of 12.5 mm gypsum board per face. Metal systems are faster to erect, dimensionally stable in humid coastal climates, naturally resistant to rot and insects, and the preferred choice for bathrooms or any space prone to moisture. For holiday rentals and hotels where acoustic performance matters, use acoustic mineral wool batts inside the cavity and double-layer board on each face.
For standard residential use in Greece, a 70 mm metal-stud partition with a single layer of 12.5 mm standard board on each face is the minimum. In a bathroom or kitchen, specify moisture-resistant (green) board; in an area that must achieve REI 30 or REI 60 fire resistance (required in hotels and multi-occupancy buildings), use Type F fire-rated board and check local fire-authority requirements.
How to Build a Non-Load-Bearing Partition Wall
- 1
Mark out and prepare the opening
Snap a chalk line on the floor along the full length of the new wall, then use a plumb line or laser level to transfer the line to the ceiling and both side walls. Check that the floor and ceiling are level — in older Greek construction they rarely are, so measure the height at multiple points and note the shortest span. Clear the area of any loose plaster or floor finish that would prevent a solid mechanical fixing. If the floor is tiled and you want to avoid cracking, lay the sole plate over the tile using acoustic resilient strip rather than cutting into it.
- 2
Fix the sole plate and head track
Cut the floor track (or timber sole plate) to length, drill clearance holes every 600 mm, and anchor it to the concrete slab with suitable masonry fixings — 8 mm nylon plugs and 70 mm screws are standard in Greek RC construction. Apply acoustic resilient strip between the track and the slab before fixing to reduce flanking sound transmission. Repeat for the ceiling track, fixing directly into the RC soffit or existing screed ceiling. On both tracks, mark stud centres at 400 mm or 600 mm intervals depending on board width (1200 mm boards divide evenly into both).
- 3
Install the vertical studs and noggins
Measure and cut each stud individually — heights vary slightly across the room. Slot studs into the floor and ceiling tracks, twist them plumb, and crimp or screw them in place. Space studs at 400 mm centres for improved rigidity and better acoustic performance, or 600 mm if cost is the priority. Add horizontal noggins (bridging pieces) at mid-height for walls over 2.4 m, and always add a horizontal noggin at 900 mm from the floor on any wall that will carry wall cabinets, towel rails, TV brackets, or radiators — these must be fixed to solid blocking, not just board. If the partition will include a door, frame the opening now with a doubled stud each side and a head piece sized to your door frame; leave the rough opening 10 mm wider and taller than the door frame for adjustment.
- 4
Run services inside the cavity before boarding
This is the correct moment — and the last easy moment — to route any services through the wall. Electrical cables must be run in conduit or protected by metal earth straps where they pass through metal studs; all electrical work inside the wall must be carried out by a licensed Greek electrician (ηλεκτρολόγος) who will issue a Υπεύθυνη Δήλωση and connect to the distribution board. Plumbing pipes should be lagged and isolated from direct metal contact to prevent corrosion and noise. Never route gas pipes inside a partition cavity — gas installations must be fully exposed and accessible at all times under Greek regulations. Once services are tested and signed off, fit mineral wool acoustic or thermal insulation batts between the studs.
- 5
Fix the plasterboard, tape, and finish
Starting from the corner, lift each board into place with the long edge running vertically and fix it to the studs using self-drilling drywall screws at 200 mm centres — screws should dimple the surface without breaking the paper facing. Stagger joints between face and back layers if using double-board for better acoustic or fire performance. Once all boards are fixed, apply joint tape and two or three coats of jointing compound (σπατουλάρισμα) over all screw heads and butt joints, feathering each coat wide for a flat finish. Sand lightly between coats. Prime the entire surface before painting; drywall absorbs paint unevenly if unprimed. At the floor and ceiling perimeter, apply a thin bead of decorators' caulk and paint over it for a clean shadow line.
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FAQ
- Do I need a building permit to build a partition wall in Greece?
- For a purely internal, non-load-bearing partition in an RC-frame building, no building permit is required under current Greek legislation, provided the work does not change the building's facade, add new plumbing or gas lines, or alter common areas in a multi-occupancy building. If you are unsure — especially in older stone or mixed-masonry structures — consult a licensed civil engineer before starting. Hotel and B&B operators should also check local fire-authority requirements, as fire-compartmentation rules may apply.
- How thick does a partition wall need to be for good sound insulation?
- A single-stud metal partition with one layer of 12.5 mm board per face provides only basic sound separation (around STC 33-35). For meaningful privacy between a bedroom and a living area in a holiday rental, use 70 mm or 100 mm studs, fill the cavity with 60 mm acoustic mineral wool, and fix two layers of 12.5 mm board on each face — this typically achieves STC 45-50. For hotel rooms adjacent to corridors, a decoupled double-stud wall with resilient mounts is worth the extra cost.
- Can I build a partition wall on top of a tiled floor without lifting the tiles?
- Yes, in most cases. Fix the sole plate or floor track directly over the existing tiles using appropriate masonry anchors into the structural slab below. Place a strip of acoustic resilient foam tape between the track and the tiles to protect the glaze and reduce noise. Avoid positioning the wall over a grout joint or a section of floor that sounds hollow when tapped — hollow tiles indicate a debonding failure underneath and the slab anchor may not grip correctly in that area. Check with a qualified tiler or builder if you suspect delamination.