How to Board and Skim a Wall: A Step-by-Step Guide
Everything you need to know about fixing plasterboard and applying a smooth skim finish.
Reviewed by Domakihub home & decor pros · 2026-06-23 · 5 min read
Boarding and skimming is the standard method for creating a flat, paint-ready wall finish in homes, holiday rentals, hotels, and offices across Greece. The video above walks through the skim coat process in real time; this guide pairs it with the full sequence from fixing the boards to pulling the final pass. Whether you are lining a bare blockwork wall or renovating a tired room, understanding each stage helps you plan materials, timelines, and when to bring in a qualified plasterer.
What 'Board and Skim' Actually Means
Boarding refers to fixing sheets of plasterboard — also sold in Greece as γυψοσανίδα — directly to a masonry wall using a dot-and-dab adhesive method, or onto a timber or metal stud frame using screws. The board provides a stable, thermally efficient substrate and dramatically speeds up the finishing process compared to traditional sand-and-cement render.
Skimming is the thin finishing coat of finish plaster (typically 2–3 mm thick) applied over the boards. Once sanded and painted, a skimmed surface is virtually indistinguishable from a plastered solid wall. The two stages together are the most common interior wall treatment used in modern European renovation.
When You Need a Professional — and When You Can DIY
For a straightforward non-structural wall — a standard room lining with no damp issues and no electrical or gas services running through the cavity — a confident DIYer can fix the boards and apply a skim coat with practice. The video linked above is an excellent resource for learning the hand technique. That said, plastering has a steep learning curve: the plaster sets in around 40–60 minutes, and spreading it evenly across a large area before it goes off is a skill that improves enormously with experience.
Any work involving structural walls, load-bearing elements, or areas with active water ingress must be assessed by a licensed civil engineer or structural specialist before boarding proceeds — covering damp with plasterboard without treating the root cause will lead to mould and board failure within a couple of seasons. Similarly, if the cavity will contain electrical conduit or chase wiring, a licensed electrician should complete their first-fix work before the boards go up.
How to Board and Skim a Wall: 5 Key Steps
- 1
Prepare the Wall and Gather Materials
Clear the room and check the masonry for active damp, cracks, or loose areas — fix these before anything else goes up. For dot-and-dab fixing you will need plasterboard sheets (12.5 mm standard or 15 mm for better sound insulation), gypsum-based bonding adhesive (such as Gyproc Drywall Adhesive or a local equivalent), a notched trowel, a plumb line or laser level, a sharp-edged saw for cutting boards, and finish plaster for the skim coat. For stud-framing instead of dot-and-dab, add metal C-stud and U-track or 50 mm × 100 mm timber, plus drywall screws and a screw gun.
- 2
Fix the Plasterboard to the Wall
For dot-and-dab: apply golf-ball-sized dabs of adhesive in a grid pattern across the wall face — perimeter dabs roughly 25 mm from the edges, then two or three vertical rows down the centre of each board width. Press the board firmly into place, check it is plumb and level, and tap it back with a straight-edge if needed. Leave a 10–15 mm expansion gap at the floor. Boards should be installed with the grey side facing outward (the white paper face accepts the skim). Stagger vertical joints between adjacent sheets so they do not align. For stud framing, screw the boards at 300 mm centres into the studs — heads driven just below the surface without tearing the paper.
- 3
Tape and Fill Joints and Screw Holes
Once all boards are fixed, press self-adhesive fibreglass mesh tape or paper jointing tape along every board joint. Fill over the tape and all screw dimples with jointing compound or bonding coat plaster, feathering it flat with a flexible knife. Allow it to dry fully — typically 24 hours — then sand lightly to a flat finish. This step is what prevents cracks showing through the final paint. If the boards have tapered edges (most modern plasterboard does), the tape and filler should sit flush with the face of the boards when dry.
- 4
Apply the First Skim Coat
Mix finish plaster to a smooth, lump-free consistency — roughly that of thick yoghurt. Using a large plasterer's trowel (a 13–14 inch leaf is typical), load the hawk and apply the plaster from the hawk to the wall in upward strokes, spreading it to roughly 2 mm thickness. Work in sections of about one square metre at a time, spreading quickly before the mix begins to stiffen. Once you have covered the section, go back over it with the trowel held at a lower angle to flatten and smooth the coat. This first coat should cover the entire wall surface uniformly.
- 5
Apply the Second Coat and Polish to a Finish
When the first coat has stiffened but not fully set — it will look darker and feel firm to the touch, usually 15–25 minutes depending on temperature — apply the second and final skim coat at roughly 1 mm thickness. Use the same spreading technique but with firmer, longer strokes. As the plaster begins to reach its final set, dampen the trowel slightly with a brush dipped in clean water and polish the surface in circular motions to close up any trowel marks. The finished surface should be glassy smooth. Leave to dry for a minimum of one week before applying any paint; use a diluted PVA mist coat as a primer before emulsion.
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FAQ
- How long does a boarded and skimmed wall take to dry before painting?
- The skim coat itself dries within 24–48 hours, but newly plastered walls contain a lot of moisture and should cure for at least 5–7 days in warm, ventilated conditions before you apply paint. In a Greek summer this can accelerate, but in cooler or less-ventilated rooms allow a full week. Use a diluted PVA mist coat as a sealer before emulsioning — painting over bone-dry bare plaster without priming will cause uneven absorption and a patchy finish.
- Can I skim directly over existing tiles or old paint instead of boarding?
- Plaster does not adhere well to glazed tiles or glossy paint without significant preparation. Old painted plaster in sound condition can be skimmed over after washing, sanding, and applying a bonding agent, but this carries more risk of delamination. Over tiles, the standard approach is to either remove them and board, or install a layer of plasterboard over them using longer dabs of adhesive (provided the wall can bear the added weight). For large areas or walls where moisture is a concern, boarding over tiles is generally the more reliable option.
- Do I need a building permit to board and skim interior walls in Greece?
- Boarding and skimming existing interior walls is cosmetic finishing work and does not generally require a building permit (οικοδομική άδεια) in Greece. However, if you are building new internal partition walls or altering the layout of rooms in a way that changes the structural or fire-compartmentation arrangement, you should consult a licensed civil engineer (πολιτικός μηχανικός) to confirm whether a small-scale works permit (μικρής κλίμακας εργασίες) is needed. For rental properties and hotels, fire-rating requirements may also dictate the type of plasterboard used.